20 new talents from the best Italian fashion schools at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA (part 2)





Among the many textile novelties and the new trends for the spring/summer 2020, MILANO UNICA has decided to support the future of Italian fashion through the project "Eyes On Me", thanks to which 20 young fashion designers, who have just come out of the most important fashion schools of Italy, had the occasion to present their graduated collections to an expert audience always looking for new talents.


As we have already seen in the previous post, "Eyes On Me" was an important project that allowed many young talents to present themselves for the first time with their work and their portfolios to an audience of buyers and talent scout in the 28th edition of MILANO UNICA.

The project is born from the collaboration between Milano Unica, the PSFM Piattaforma Sistema Formativo Moda and Fashion Graduate Italia, the graduated fashion week in which many of them had already had the opportunity to show off their final collections at the end of their fashion design courses.

The exhibition spaces of "Eyes On Me" at Milano Unica


At "Eyes on me" instead, the relationship between these guys and the audience was more direct and each of them had the possibility not only to show their creations and their portfolios, but also to explain what inspired them and how they have come to this result through a long design process.

The fashion schools involved into the project "Eyes On Me" at Milano Unica


That's how I entered their world made of drawings, experimentation, desire for success and aspirations for the future. Here is the second part of the article dedicated to these 20 young designers and their graduated collections.


ANTONIO CORPOSANTO

Antonio Corposanto was one of the true revelations of the fashion shows at the Fashion Graduate Italia in the last edition of the end of October. Coming from the ACCADEMIA DI BELLE ARTI DI BRERA, Antonio has given a decidedly refined and creative glamour impulse to the collective show of this prestigious school, in whose DNA art is the main driver of every cultural expression. 

Antonio Corposanto, from Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA


Antonio managed to create a very concrete work giving also a strong artistic contribution to a very mature collection in stylistic terms. "Wild Form" is inspired by the world of Black Africa and on the catwalk this talented designer has brought a powerful female image, a sensual and wild woman, but at the same time extremely elegant. 

Portfolio by Antonio Corposanto, from Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera



The collection starts from the interest expressed by the designer for the materials. In the elaboration of his own concept, he started from the fabrics he personally created in over two months of work, basing on the concepts of contrast between smooth leather, exotic leathers and suede, raffia and twine intertwinements, applications on gold knit and tulle, going to recreate beautiful tribal masks used as an expression of strength and primitive beauty. 

Capsule collection by Antonio Corposanto, from Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera, at Fashion Graduate Italia 2018



ENRICA DE SANTIS

I already had the opportunity to talk about the collection "Perturbatio Delirae Mentis" created by Enrica De Santis, because she was among the students to whom I dedicated an article during the Graduation Days of ISTITUTO SECOLI. The thesis collection is inspired by one of the most serious mental illnesses, schizophrenia, and for this reason I was intrigued by the choice of this challenging telematics by such a young girl. Enrica explained to me that in the past she had the opportunity to come into contact with sick people and from that experience she was particularly impressed. 

Enrica De Santis, from Istituto Secoli, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA


Desiring to express something deeply felt and really interesting for her work for the thesis, Enrica has elaborated a complex collection, extremely rich on a conceptual level, in which every movement determined by the versatility and interchangeability of her garments seems to bring back to the thousand delirious forms that this disease can create on people's heads.

Enrica De Santis, from Istituto Secoli, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA


The designer creates garments that intersect with each other, which are worn overlapping, that can be disassembled and used individually or create fantastic assemblies. In search of strong contrasts, she used a combination of light and heavy fabrics, patterns printed with pansies, maxi houndstooth and camouflage or solid colors in autumn shades, ranging from silk chiffon to raw bouclé wool, from organza to the wool and plush, also using denim and quilted fabrics that play with the shine of taffeta.
Outfit from the capsule collection by Enrica De Santis, from Istituto Secoli, at Fashion Graduate Italia 2018


MARIA AURELIA LATTARULI

Maria Aurelia Lattaruli is one of the most interesting students of the school AFOL MODA. At Milano Unica she brings her collection "Concrete", inspired by the clean lines of modernist architecture, with garments that have straight or oversize shapes and unusual details, which give a touch of extreme modernity to the fabrics draped on the body and to the silhouettes constructed through rigorous geometric shapes. 

Maria Aurelia Lattaruli, from Afol Moda, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA



Very interesting are the details, that the young designer inserts inside her collection to give movement to the garments, as well as a precise combination of materials and colors, which light up flashes of yellow light on the dark cool wool or create diluted colorings on beautiful tailored coats and on linen gauze dresses. 

Collection by Maria Aurelia Lattaruli, from Afol Moda



The leather accessories are handmade and decorated with a golden metal mesh tube with rigid core, that creates geometric and almost sculptural shapes to support the textile structures. Her is a modern collection, refined, wearable, perfectly calibrated and innovative at the same time.  

Portfolio by Maria Aurelia Lattaruli, from Afol Moda



GIULIO MORINI 

Giulio Morini, a graduate of the LABA LIBERA ACCADEMIA DI BELLE ARTI in Brescia, presented to "Eyes On Me" a sum of all the projects realized during the scholastic period and for his final collection. Gifted with an innate talent for textile experimentation and artistic research, he is inspired by a strong sense of drama and his creations are unique and with a strong visual impact, conceived as real wearable material sculptures. 

Giulio Morini, from LABA Libera Accademia di Belle Arti in Brescia, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA


Among the outfits presented, there was the suit composed by a pleated top and a skirt of the "Memento" collection, inspired by the cult of death in both the Egyptian and in our Western culture, and therefore made through the use of layers of black tulle and of linen strips, specially aged and stained for mimic the bandages of the mummies. 

Outfit from the collection "Memento" by Giulio Morini, from LABA Libera Accademia di Belle Arti in Brescia


From his "Waste" collection, he has brought two pieces, made with industrial textile processing scraps, composed by a cocktail dress in faux fur and tweed which contrasts, for the material effect and visual heaviness, to the cape, which through layers of tulle and hand painted fabrics, wants to reproduce the softness of a fur and the lightness of a stormy cloud. 

Outfit from the collection "Waste" by Giulio Morini, from LABA Libera Accademia di Belle Arti in Brescia


The third outfit, which recently appeared in Fashion Graduate Italia, is part of his "Memoriam" collection, for which the designer has used vintage garments and military jackets which he then unstructured and rebuilt, intervening with resin effects to block their structure in a sculptural manner and imprison small objects between the folds of the fabrics. 

Outfit from the collection "Memoriam" by Giulio Morini, from LABA Libera Accademia di Belle Arti in Brescia



WENQIAN TAN

The Chinese-born designer Wenqian Tan graduated from the ISTITUTO MARANGONI MILANO and presented at “Eyes On Me” an extremely cutting-edge collection entitled "Conjoined", which draws inspiration from the special condition of life of the joint twins, those who cannot be separate if not artificially and who share essential parts of the same body. 

Wenqian Tan, from Istituto Marangoni Milano, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA


Considering the clothing not as an artificial structure, but as something alive that deserves its own possibility of evolution, the designer started thinking of creating structures similar to the strange metamorphoses that nature sometimes creates, thus giving rise to unique and extraordinary forms of textile life. 

Wenqian Tan, from Istituto Marangoni Milano, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA


Her garments have multiple points of view, because they can be seen from different points, and it’s composed by jackets with multiple sleeves sprouting on the front or back of the garment. The proportions of the silhouettes are elongated, exasperated or shortened in an extreme way and are designed to accommodate hybrid bodies, while their surface is faceted in a patchwork of details that enliven the texture.


Portfolio by Wenqian Tan, from Istituto Marangoni Milano


LORIS GIORDA - MARTINA FONIO

IAAD ISTITUTO D'ARTE APPLICATA E DESIGN was present at “Eyes On Me” with two young designers. 

Loris Giorda and Martina Fonio, from IAAD Istituto D'Arte Applicata e Design, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA


Loris Giorda presented his thesis collection inspired by the work of Rick Owens, with whom he also collaborated. His pieces, truly cutting edge, analyze Owens' work in relation to the Japanese theater Butoh, which since the 1950s revolutionized the world of contemporary dance through the physical and visual provocation of the actors, with their white faces, their frenetic movements halfway between spirituality and absurd, their expressive expression and references to autoeroticism. 

Loris Giorda, from IAAD Istituto D'Arte Applicata e Design, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA


Loris produces men's garments that don’t have traditional shapes, but that play, a little as Owens does, with excessive, disordered and disproportionate volumes, with asymmetries and cuts in unusual places, with technological and decidedly unusual materials such as the glass fiber, coated canvas or padded taffeta, in a palette of colors that plays only with grays and blacks, while the images of the Butoh theater become like printed postcards applied to the garments. 

Portfolio by Loris Giorda, from IAAD Istituto D'Arte Applicata e Design,

 
Martina Fonio presents her collection of accessories, with bags with minimal lines and origami shapes that fit together with each other, until the desired shape is achieved through folds and joints. Starting from a single piece, through the use of special materials and workmanship on the surface, the geometry of the collection comes to life through the use of warm and autumn colors.


Martina Fonio, from IAAD Istituto D'Arte Applicata e Design, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA



IRENE GONNELLI

Irene Gonnelli, graduated 3 years ago from ISTITUTO MODARTECH, presented her collection entitled "Phoenix". Transformation is the main theme of inspiration of her thesis project, that she carried on analyzing the whole life cycle of the Phoenix, from its primitive existence to death in the flames, to the transformation into ashes and finally the rebirth. 

Irene Gonnelli, from Istituto Modartech, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA



The theme is interpreted in the form of regeneration and recycling, with a focus on sustainability through the use of waste materials especially for accessories, such as the Fenice theatrical mask and the small plexiglass bags that accompany the outfits.
 
Graduate collection by Irene Gonnelli, from Istituto Modartech



The designer, who is also an excellent illustrator, creates models ranging from the ash gray of the cotton dresses and the micro shorts in leather, to flashes of color in the shade of the fire, represented by hand-made free brushstrokes on organza fabrics , while the fire lapilli are represented through embroidery and applications of feathers and threads that give movement to her creations.
  
Portfolio by Irene Gonnelli, from Istituto Modartech


HYEYUN SEOL

The Korean designer Hyeyun Seol, who participated in the collective fashion show of DOMUS ACADEMY at Fashion Graduate Italia, exhibited the garments of her men's collection inspired by the novel "Metamorphosis" by Franz Kafka. 

Hyeyun Seol, from Domus Academy, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA


Starting from the character Gregor Samsa, the designer invents her own character, who lives in a gray city, surrounded by workers like him, with whom he shares a banal life made up of daily routines, boredom and resignation. Until it happens in him a transformation, that on ne side pulls him out of the banality and on the other catapults him into a deep inner crisis. 

Hyeyun Seol, from Domus Academy, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA


The designer makes the idea of ​​this transformation through asymmetrical utility-style garments, often with two different souls that mix unstructured jackets and satin suits, oversize work-suits and skimpy tailored vests, shirts with double collars and cutted sleeves, many pockets everywhere. All thought in a gray, that ranges from the pearl to the colors of the leaden sky and of the London smoke, up to touch the black.


Capsule collection by Hyeyun Seol, from Domus Academy, at Fashion Graduate Italia



CHIARA PARISI

Chiara Parisi comes from the NEXT FASHION SCHOOL BY CARLA SECOLI in Bologna. At Milano Unica she presents her "Inside Out Destruct" collection, created for a contest organized in collaboration with FRI Fashion Research Italy, an important foundation for didactic research and  exhibitions of the archives of the Italian companies in the manufacturing sector. 

Chiara Parisi, from Next Fashion School by Carla Secoli, at "Eyes On Me" by MILANO UNICA


Inspired by its textile archives, the designer has developed a collection in which the 70s style all-over floral patterns play in strong chromatic contrast with destructured elements used in overlapping, assembled parts made of heavier fabrics and solid colors, that seem taken from other items of clothing and reused under different forms. The outfits so assembled, have two different souls each and mix shapes adhering to the body with others intentionally oversized, made through folds and drapes, with belts and straps that sometimes close the proportions and unite all the elements of the composition.
 
Portfolio by Chiara Parisi, from Next Fashion School by Carla Secoli


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