500 masterpieces of contemporary jewelry on show at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019

Please, don’t call them simply jewels, because the 500 creations that were exhibited from 19th to 24th February 2019 in the splendid setting of Palazzo Bovara in Milan, go beyond the concept of body ornamentation and embrace the philosophy and the artistic method.

ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019 was a true revelation, a new world opened in front of the eyes of visitors, that showed us how much imagination can go beyond what we usually think about a certain topic, in this case about the evolution of the jewelry in a contemporary key.

ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019, exhibition of contemporary jewelry, at Palazzo Bovaro

If someone had thought of seeing the usual necklaces of colored gemstones, well, he certainly had to change his mind. In the 700 square meters of Palazzo Bovara totally dedicated to the exhibition, Artistar Jewels 2019 has hosted 140 artists coming from all around the world, whose works have been selected for their high stylistic value and for the careful research and experimentation on traditional and more innovative materials and techniques. Among them were selected three jewelry designers as winners of the contest "Artistar Jewels Award 2019", Sowon Joo, Veronika Kuryanova and Bia Tambelli, who will have the possibility to partecipate for free to next edition of the event.
The winners of Artistar Jewels Award 2019

Along the exhibition path the sculptural jewels were placed inside transparent cases, made in an extremely minimal way to enhance the beauty of the jewels, or emphasized by artistic installations and the exhibition has been divided into 4 thematic areas: avant-garde, innovation, precious and recycling.

"Remains of the feast", an interactive installation in favor of sustainability, at Artistar Jewels 2019

The authors of these authentic wonders had the maximum creative freedom and in fact in the exhibition were presented many techniques and shape, from the traditional metallurgic techniques to the 3D printer, from the most exaggerated naturalism to the purest geometry, often going beyond the limits of portability in favor of conceptual expression never bridled in conventional canons.

Contemporary jewelry exhibition at Artistar Jewels 2019

There are several currents among the most avant-garde jewels. An extravagant anatomical trend leads jeweler artists to represent internal and external parts of the human body, sometimes hybridized with plants and metals, sometimes interpreted in a surreal way or as a representation of the internal organs.

Anatomic contemporary jewelry by Sara Leme, Petra Mohylova, Sunset Yogurt and Sara Zaghetto at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019

Among the extravagances we also find funny characters with a thousand eyes, bejeweled eyeglasses, vegetal creatures that seem to come from another planet, fetish objects imprisoned in the resin, stills that collect natural elements, surreal spoons, parts of dolls, but also fashion magazines that come shredded and used to make jewelry sets.

Extravagant contemporary jewelry by Denis Sozin, Natalia Vorokhina, Diana Vasile, Rebekah Wilson, Nita Angeletti, Sara Leme, Mihaela Caravan,  Sui Ling Wang, Elena Franceschetti, Sunset Yogurt, Anca Croitorun, Arina Nitulescu at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019

The naturalistic theme is extremely felt and there were animals of all kinds, from sheep that seem stolen to the crib and reused in an ironic key, to stylized and geometrized birds, from deer skewed by arrows to precious tempting snakes, but also the inhabitants of the sea turned into mussels of ceramic or white corals from which strings of pearls come out, or small fishes made of resin coated fabric.

Animal-shape contemporary jewelry by Katherine Hubble, Agostina Laurenzano, Tessa Theocharis Ganidou, Natalia Lubieniecka, Paola Guzmàn, Misato Takahashi and Marco Mormile at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019

Among the animals there were many insects, from the most precious ones in diamonds and emeralds to those gold plated that contain human-likened characters inside them. Then there were spiders, grasshoppers, flies, moths and beetles with an extremely naturalistic effect, but made of fabric encrusted with crystals.

Insect-shape contemporary jewelry by Jessica Pass, Natalia Lubieniecka, Sara Christian and Yuri Gogol at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019

In the vegetal world we can ranges from the tender petals of real plants that make delicate metal ramifications, to colored irises or laurel leaves that recall the crowns of the Roman emperors, but also small stylized flowers that decorate metallic shirt collars, delicate flowers made of golden mesh, honeycomb with a material effect, but also fabric mushrooms, even resin apples that fit other materials or delicate plants that fly with the wind.

Floral-shape contemporary jewelry by Carlo Lucidi, Ana Margarida Carvalho, Miss Kay Guo, Sara Zaghetto, Anna Nana-Liess, Natalia Lubieniecka and Monica Iacovenco at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019

Contemporary jewelry also builds pseudo-architectural forms, such as contemporary skylines or intricate structures that look like baroque architectures, but above all geometries that leave free rein to unbridled fantasies. 

Architectural contemporary jewelry by Nina Oikawa, Inna Vlasikhina and Gabriel Popa at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019

There are three-dimensional geometric structures that play with mirror effects, brooches made of wooden blocks, circle necklaces in rubber, solids that fit together with each other, multiple rings in the 60s style that can be used in different ways, incredible bracelets of circles that perform elliptical orbits, gems or pieces of wood that are intersected by brass tubes or wooden lamellas that create sinuous changing shapes. But also square necklaces, origami-effect earrings, necklaces that recall the style of the Bauhaus, elaborate structures created with the 3D printer or pins that look like materic paintings.

3D geometric contemporary jewelry  at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019 by: Luana Loureiro Coelho, Michelle Lowe-Holder, Mona Tabicca, Bia Tambelli, Ute DEcker, Kim Jiyoung, Rosamaria Venetucci, Michelia, HRK, Anastasia Dubrova, Ariadne Kapelioti, Francesca Paolin, Panayiotis Panayi , Marion Colasse, Doris Gabrielli, Swain McCaughrin, Aileen Gray, Anna Maria Pitt, May Gañàn, Raquel Bessudo, Sara Christian and Alva Chan

A great protagonist of this edition is gold, used pure or as plating, and that is always incredibly flashy, forming wide pectorals, sinuous lines that surround large stones or the neck of women, but that is also fragmented and made geometric in support of huge amber stones.

New gold contemporary jewelry  at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019 by Doris Gabrielli, Maria Elisabetta Donadio, Francesco Barbato

Gold is transformed into metallic wire and becomes the favorite material for the new avant-garde filigree, which creates hearts, vaguely phyto-morphic forms, rough tufts of grass, which imprison stones or mimic the complicated and perfect shape of the shells. Following the reticular structure, also the aluminum tubes are colored and have articulated shapes.

Metal wire contemporary jewelry  at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019 by Sowon Joo, Rachel Reilly, Sheila Westera, Reem Jano, Max Sytnikov, Francesca Di Virgilio

The new gems are interpreted in an extremely imaginative or hyper-luxurious way. Some are cut to fit with customizable gold jewels, others are huge and create movement. Others are totally geometrized and supported by very modern structures, while the crystals in their purest form are cut into strips or imprisoned by the metal. Even in the most precious necklaces, that use traditional techniques, the gem is the same, but it becomes huge and has a dreamlike image decidedly fantasy.
New gemstones contemporary jewelry  at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019 by Anna Maccieri, Lucia Petracca & Alessandra Mazzeo, Natalia Vorokhina, Alessandro Orlandi, Orsa Maggiore, Sheila Cunha, Anna Zeibig, Adha Zelma, Yichen Dong and John Farris

Many are the materic effects given to these contemporary jewels, from the gemstones that are covered with enamels to jewels made in fabric, to particular colored textures. There are effects of corrosion or incrustation of surfaces, lava textures, games of materials also recycled, jewelry that looks like poor art sculptures, others that use the fabric to create structures encrusted with gold laminations, while others use paper and wood and others again are covered with colored resins. There are effects of dew on metal surfaces, like gemstones, musks that encrust golf balls and gold granulation that attacks Murano glass gems.
Texturized contemporary jewelry  at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019 by: Vasiliki Merianou, Diane Vasile, Valerie Cheung, Rebekah Wilson, Agustina Ros, Nayibe Warchausky, Officinacentouno, Taibe Palacios, Tassa Theocharis Ganidou, Gina Melosi, Susan Lenart Kazmer, Lindsey Fontijn, Bàrbara Laso Fernàndez, Silvia Cruceru, Miruna Belicovici, Gena Tudor, Andreia Popescu

Among the most incredible effects there is the search for extreme lightness given through plexiglass and acrylic, for totally transparent jewels that create geometric shapes, maxi gems held by cords in contrast between lightness and heaviness, or sufaces that support details in silver that seem to levitate in the void.

Transparent contemporary jewelry  at ARTISTAR JEWELS 2019 by Michelle Lung and Morena Fregonese