ALTAROMA LOOKS TO THE NEXT GENERATION OF ITALIAN HAUTE COUTURE (part 4)





Investing in energy and resources on fashion schools, young designers and emerging brands without ever forgetting the tradition, but rather trying to carry on all the best of Made in Italy, means believing in future. This is the last part of the long report of my visit to Altaroma.


It's been almost a month since the spotlight went out on the most important event of Italian high fashion. Many things have happened in the meantime. The ready-to-wear fashion weeks have begun, there have been the most important fairs in the fashion industry, such as Milano Unica and Première Vision.

But above all Karl Lagerfeld, one of the greatest Couturier that the history of fashion has ever had, left us a little more alone. One who believed in young people, who had a special relationship with the city of Rome and in particular with the Maison Fendi, of which he was creative director for a long time. A person who believed strongly in the future, but who based all his work on solid foundations that draw from tradition.

Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi



As the people who are in the organization of the ALTAROMA, and in particular Silvia Venturini Fendi and Simonetta Gianfelici, have tried to do and are carrying on with all their passion. 


Belief is the watchword of this edition of the AltaRoma. To believe in the future of Italian fashion, passing through the revaluation of the know-how of traditional tailoring and craftsmanship of Made in Italy. To believe in talent, which must be cultivated year after year through the support of the most prestigious fashion schools of the capital and their students, who have the opportunity to present themselves for the first time to the attention of the public and the mass media.




To believe that Italian fashion is not only based on the laurels of a magnificent past, but is alive, pulsating of energy and creativity. That there is, and there must be, a dutiful generational change, carried out through the birth of new interesting brand of womenswear, menswear and accessories. That must be supported in every possible ways, to ensure them to enter the market, to overcome the competition and to stand out for the extreme quality and beauty of their design. Among a thousand difficulties, AltaRoma did just that, bringing on the catwalk fashion schools, emerging brands and young designers and showing to everyone the potential of this new made in Italy.

The entrance of Showcase spaces at AltaRoma



This is the last part of the long report I wrote to tell my days at AltaRoma, where I met many people, saw old friends and met for the first time so many talented young promising designers.







FROM CLASSROOMS TO THE SPOTLIGHT OF PRESTIGIOUS CATWALK OF ALTAROMA




AltaRoma brought the young students of the most prestigious fashion schools of the Italian capital to the catwalk for the first time, presenting their final collections that conclude an always very challenging and definitely exciting long educational path.



Accademia di Moda Maiani



Presentation of the ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI's graduate fashion show through the sketches realized by its students



Among the fashion schools attending the event, there was the prestigious ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI, a reality in the educational fashion scene that began in the 90s thanks to the work of its founder Maria Maiani, who last year celebrated 50 years of career in haute couture. A school that has its roots in the most refined and elegant sartorial tradition, but that is able to constantly renew its image through creative collections that combine the art of know-how with a pinch of extravagance.

Waiting the beginning of the graduate fashion show by ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI


The collection presented by Altaroma is called "Tropical Baroque" and the name is perfect to indicate a mixture of intricate shapes inspired by the Italian Baroque artists, whose works contribute to making Rome the most beautiful city in the world, with opulent and sumptuous luxury of the forest and the beaches of tropical paradises. The school presented the capsule collection and the creations of 11 students.
Graduate fashion show of the students Ilenia Spiriti, Patrizia Izzo and Luana Cicchinelli from ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI


  • The outfit designed by Ilenia Spiriti opens the scene of the graduate fashion show. A suit consisting of a skirt and a top thought for a “grand soiree” event, in different shades of green, which mixes classic shapes with rich floral decorations and free brushstrokes of color.
  • The collection of four outfits designed by Patrizia Izzo is among the most avant-garde of the entire show and is inspired by the conflict between modernity and nature. The colors of Indonesian tropical forests are imprisoned by the beautiful and rigid architectural structures, designed by man to stifle the freedom of nature. Also very particular are the gas masks, which depict Caravaggio and Vermeer's works and are completely covered with heavy crystals, symbolizing the devastation and pollution caused by man.
  • A game of contrasts for the capsule collection by Luana Cicchinelli, who creates 3 outfits in which the patchwork of baroque fabrics mixes with masculine lines, colored turbans and showy jewels made with tatting technique and decorated with colored gems

Graduate fashion show of the students Cristina di Santo, Eleonora Valentini and Francesca Nunzi from ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI



  • The four models designed by Cristina Di Santo compare the richness of the Baroque, visible in the preciousness of the fabrics of the first two outfits, with the poverty of jute used for knitting and decorations inspired by large leaves and flowers of the forest. All made extremely elegant by a very refined natural color palette.
  • Eleonora Valentini creates two very interesting outfits, which combine the opulence of heavy 17th century lace with sculptural and geometric shapes and representations of huge palm leaves, mixing in an innovative way the fabrics with raw cork sheets.
  • Ecstasy and wonder inspire the two creations of Francesca Nunzi, who mixes Bernini's architectural structures and sculptures with the vibrant colors of the tropical forest and the wings of the hummingbird, playing with contrasts and asymmetries

Graduate fashion show of the students Giorgia Lo Pizzo, Lucia Ortiz and Marika Priori from ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI


  • In the collection consisting of 4 outfits made by Giorgia Lo Pizzo, the lush leaves of different sizes and shapes of the rich Amazon forest, become precious gold-colored structures that rest on graceful silhouettes, made of impalpable fabrics such as silk chiffon and organza that have the colors of dawn and night.
  • It’is a decidedly fresh the summer collection designed by Lucia Ortiz, characterized by four very light outfits inspired by the natives of the tropical lands. The young designer plays with the contrast between silks, jute, hemp and rubber nets, transforming the sarong and micro-tops skirts thanks to floral embroideries and crochet decorations
  • Marika Priori is inspired by the depths of the Pacific Ocean, creating two opulent outfits that mix many shades of blue in gradation, with iridescent brocades in the Baroque style, prints that reflect the coral reef and decors of shells
Graduate fashion show of the students Noemi Mattei and Sara Cimmino from ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI





  • The two outfits created by Noemi Mattei go against the current, analyzing in a decidedly unexpected and interesting way the most suffocating aspects of both the Baroque and the forest. The rich and exaggerated forms, typical of the 17th century, containing a contrast of just perceptible multicolored prints, representing the discomfort of the younger generation towards man-made pollution and the freedom given by nature 
  • Contamination between Pop art, baroque richness and tropical colors for the two outfits created by Sara Cimmino, who mixes white and bright fabrics with intricate golden lace, reviving the classic lines with strong colors combined for contrast



  • Accademia del Lusso


    Backstage of the fashions show by ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO



    Even ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO, both in its Roman and Belgrade headquarters, was for the first time among the most prestigious schools that presented their collective collection called "Innovation Catwalk" at AltaRoma, without disappointing the expectations, proposing innovation, originality and elegance in the fashion show of the 6 students of the fashion design course.


    Collection by Viviana Rosati, from ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO in Rome

    Viviana Rosati presented a capsule collection inspired by the variegated world of birds, whose multicolored feathers decorate and give a touch of poetry to the modern and contemporary structures of geometric coats, beautiful capes, dresses and accessories. Whether they are real or painted, the feathers are softly inserted between the knitting wool sweater to create a strong contrast between geometry and sensuality. They give an almost tribal touch to silk dresses, becoming geometric patterns and so turning into almost reptile scales, becoming sporty for the plush dress or almost disappearing between the ruffles and the drapery of asymmetrical mini dresses. A very beautiful and refined collection in the choice of colors, which combine the strong tones typical of colored feathers to neutral tones, used as background and made strong and sensual by so much touches of red.

    Collection by Lorenzo Papi, from ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO in Rome

    The young designer Lorenzo Papi is inspired by the world of bondage, creating a hyper-sexy collection that alternates femininity and excess. Among his favorite materials there are black leather, Latex and vinyl, but these are alternated with soft and almost traditional fabrics. In some outfits, heavy knitted cardigans play with very short miniskirts and sporty t-shirts. Others are inspired by the Japanese Art of Shibari, with knots surrounding the body and imprisoning its femininity expressed by delicate shades of nude pink. Others play with the concept of asymmetry and contrast between a feminine and sexy woman and her most aggressive and contemporary part, through dresses and suits divided in half between leather jackets and mini-dresses, decorated parts and classic shapes.
    Collection by Maria Adele Roia, from ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO in Rome


    Maria Adele Roia graduated some time ago and has already started working as an emerging designer. On the catwalk she brings a collection characterized by strong contrasts, mixing more traditional lines with geometric shapes and identifying in the details the strong point of her style. The jackets are all oversized, with large shoulders and interesting inserts of python leather or fur that create geometric shapes. The coats alternate large quilted sleeves with masculine fabrics, shiny leathers and classic wool in soft shades. Exaggerated and 19th-century-style sleeves become Pop, thanks to strong shades such as electric violet, or are transformed into soft knit structures alternated with vinyl skirts or made with traditional fabrics.

    Collection by Anna Voronkova, from ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO in Rome
     

    The ex-engineer and graduate in business administration Anna Voronkova, has found her true vocation chasing the dream of fashion. Student at the Accademia del Lusso in Rome, the designer presented a collection called “The Lost Civilization”, inspired by the ancient civilities of the Incas, Mayans and Sumerians, but with many references also to the history of costume and with decidedly innovative touches. Among the most beautiful outfits, there are those that mix multicolored geometric patchwork, dresses that look like grandma's doilies but that have an incredibly modern look. But also suits in medieval armor style, entirely made of woolen knit, but combined with metallic fabrics reminiscent of the ancient chain-mail of the Knights of the Crusades, or cape-like dresses in neutral tones and with a raw look. But above all, the beautiful suits that mix the bodysuit line with sartorial details, such as the one in black and white that mixes different sizes of houndstooth, or the one in warm tones worked with crochet and with interesting rigid details that give a touch of avant-garde.

    Collection by Maja Milosevic, from ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO in Belgrade

    Maja Milosevic instead presents a refined and elegant collection, very Parisian. The designer graduated from Accademia del Lusso in Belgrade, titled her collection “Instant Crush” to celebrate the propensity of modern society for everything that is immediate. In fact, the outfits present contrasts between modernity and tradition, sports and extreme luxury, male and female. The mini bomber in checked wool is combined with the maxi skirt in transparent lace, that shows the whole body. Heavy fur edges decorate kimono sleeves and collars. Scottish patterns in soft and delicate shades are combined to silk shirts with jabot and puffed sleeves, while in the black and white version of heavy wool they are used for the berets and the skirts decorated with edges of lace.  

    Collection by Kristina Marovic, from ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO in Belgrade

    Kristina Marović, also coming from the Belgrade school’s headquarter, brings to the catwalk an extremely refined and elegant collection inspired by the “Swan Lake”. As in the costumes of the famous ballet, also for the Montenegrin designer the outfits are clouds of tulle and delicate laces. Ostrich feathers become very light and impalpable mini-dresses, while the shapes of the swan’s wings give life to theatrical mantle coats. It’s the triumph of the evening dress, which has sinuous lines and sweetheart necklines or small crinolines that play in transparency. Also for the evening, the designer combines the concept of the black satin tuxedo jacket with lace trousers, or the “grand soiree” dress in tulle and black lace, that is worn almost casually with a jacket thrown over the shoulders. In the contrast between black and white, the feeling is that the darker and more mysterious side of women has the upper hand.



    THE EX FINALISTS OF “WHO IS ON NEXT?” ON THE CATWALKS OF ALTAROMA

    Last June presented their collections to the jury of “Who Is On Next?” as finalists of the prestigious contest. In the January edition of AltaRoma they were finally able to present their latest collections on the catwalk, gathering the success among the public and the recognition by the mass media.

    Fashion show by LEO STUDIO DESIGN


    "Baam! Crash! Boom!", many times we have seen these strange words in the pages of our favorite comics, used to represent in an onomatopoeic way the sounds of objects that break, fists and explosions. LEO STUDIO DESIGN, the brand created by Leonardo Macina, presents the fall/winter 2019-20 collection that is inspired by the extravagant, colorful and pleasantly kitschy world of comics, recovering the graphics and colors loved by Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein.

    Fashion show by LEO STUDIO DESIGN

    The collection was among the most pleasant that I have seen in this edition. The graphics are fun and excessive, the combinations are strong and wisely improbable. Everything is extreme, yet perfectly calibrated. Leonardo Macina transforms the classic elements of women's wardrobe and of sportswear, which winks at the Street Style, with a touch of fantasy in the style of the 60s, creating beautiful versions of houndstooth in unusual combinations of color.
     
    Fashion show by LEO STUDIO DESIGN
     

    He turns sweatshirts and jogging tracksuits through color-block effects and all-over prints that reproduce stylized lightning. Creates innovative and funny sweaters using a very curly wool bouclé and gives a touch of elegance to the collection mixing silk to the most sporty shapes. Uses the acid and fluorescent colors of the Swinging London for shirts with wide, pointed collars or for the college-style cardigans. Mixes refined jacquard fabrics and woolen lamé brocades in candy colors. He combines primary and complementary colors in colorful and carefree outfits and above all, he transforms his LSD logo into the 60s psychedelic emblem, but which is used in a decidedly contemporary key.


    Fashion show by MRZ Simona Marziali


    Urban spirit and contemporaneity for the "Glamour Nomad" fashion show by MRZ SIMONA MARZIALI, graduated from the Accademia Koefia and founder of her own brand in 2012. Her collection is extremely portable, with garments stolen both for men's wardrobe and from sportswear, with interesting mixes of traditional fabrics and more elaborate and contemporary silhouettes. The proportions are all oversize, both for the maxi sweatshirts matched to the trousers with folds and check fabrics in the style of the 40s, and for the bomber jackets that have voluminous proportions and are made of curly wool.
    Fashion show by MRZ Simona Marziali

    Very special is the work that the designer does on knitwear to make it attractive and modern, through blocks of color that form large lines inspired by sportswear or through cuts and special effects that ruin the surface of the oversize sweaters and mantles. The spirit is a bit 'nomadic and in fact some prints seem taken from airport and parcels signs, while traveling a little' back in time we find vaguely grunge lines and very sartorial London-style trench coats.



    SHOWCASE ALTAROMA UNDER THE BANNER OF SUSTAINABILITY, LUXURY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP



    The last day of SHOWCASE ended with the presentation of the clothing and accessory collections presented by both the finalists of “Who Is On Next?” and the emerging Italian and international brands selected by Silvia Venturini Fendi and Simonetta Gianfelici.



    BAV TAILOR at Showcase AltaRoma



    BAV TAILOR is a designer of Indian origin, but born in London and a lover of Made in Italy. She is one of the most interesting names in sustainable fashion, because she manages to combine the concept of respect for the environment with an extremely luxurious taste, great sartorial research and experimentation. Her is a sustainable luxury project based on ethical processes and choices of ecological materials. But the designer transforms what is normally considered a kind of fashion that is certainly respectful, but unattractive from the stylistic point of view, in a new proposal that has nothing to envy to the more noble brands of the ready-to-wear. And she does so through a careful research of details, which also become textile experimentation, and through innovative research of volumes, which however embrace a minimalist taste and a graceful yet decisive spirit.



    YEKATERINA IVANKOVA at Showcase AltaRoma


    YEKATERINA IVANKOVA breaks with her strong colors and contrasting combinations in the men's fashion scene, with a collection inspired by the Indonesian and Malay technique of printing fabrics called Ikat. The designer interprets this traditional technique, transforming it into multicolored and almost shaded prints, which make the men's garments cut and frayed to make them extremely modern. But above all, she uses this print to create beautiful and innovative padded coats, with oversize shapes and street-style spirit.


    DILETTA CANCELLATO at Showcase AltaRoma

    DILETTA CANCELLATO, also a finalist of “Who Is On Next?”, is one of the designers that I follow with greater interest, because her collections are always extremely refined. At showcase there were her innovative knitwear proposals. Jackets, cardigans and dresses with voluminous and sculptural sleeves, that contrast with the most minimalist lines of the silhouette and that become even more special thanks to contrasting edges, which decorate the surface in a very simple but strong way. The interesting mix is between minimalism, romanticism and extreme contemporaneity.

    MTF MARIA TURRI at Showcase AltaRoma


    Textile experimentation is taken to extreme consequences in the cutting-edge garments, yet so much artisanal, made by MTF MARIA TURRI. Finalist of “Who Is On Next?”, the designer presents a collection in which sobriety and minimalism are combined with extremely experimental research in the textile field. Maria Teresa mixes the simple shapes of the sartorial tradition with applications in thick threads of wool and strips of fabric, applied with rough stitching both on the jackets and on the dresses. The finishes are apparently and deliberately coarse, to give the idea of handmade and give value to the time that the artisan uses in working on her creations.


    VILLATRENTUNO at Showcase AltaRoma


    The emerging brand of leather goods VILLATRENTUNO presents at Showcase a collection of opulent accessories, inspired by the Zodiac and the forms of nature. Among the most interesting models of handbags, there are clutch bags with metal handles in the shape of bamboo or decorated by maxi beetles in gold or embroidered with crystals and lines that represent the various constellations. The choice of leathers is rich, from reptile to suede or smooth leather, and the color palette is refined, while luxury is represented by the choice of gold as a trait d'union among all the pieces of the collection.



     

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