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ALTAROMA LOOKS TO THE NEXT GENERATION OF ITALIAN HAUTE COUTURE (part 4)

ALTAROMA LOOKS TO THE NEXT GENERATION OF ITALIAN HAUTE COUTURE (part 4)

 




Investing in
energy and resources on fashion schools, young designers and emerging brands
without ever forgetting the tradition, but rather trying to carry on all the
best of Made in Italy, means believing in future.
This is
the last part of the long report of my visit to Altaroma.

It’s been
almost a month since the spotlight went out on the most important event of
Italian high fashion.
Many things have happened in the
meantime.
The ready-to-wear fashion weeks have begun,
there have been the most important fairs in the fashion industry, such as
Milano Unica and Première Vision.
But above all
Karl Lagerfeld, one of the greatest Couturier that the history of fashion has
ever had, left us a little more alone. One who believed in young people, who
had a special relationship with the city of Rome and in particular with the
Maison Fendi, of which he was creative director for a long time.
A person who believed strongly in the future, but who based all his
work on solid foundations that draw from tradition.
Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi
As the people
who are in the organization of the ALTAROMA, and in particular Silvia Venturini
Fendi
and Simonetta Gianfelici, have tried to do and are carrying on with all
their passion. 

Belief is the
watchword of this edition of the AltaRoma.
To believe in the
future of Italian fashion, passing through the revaluation of the know-how of
traditional tailoring and craftsmanship of Made in Italy.
To believe in
talent, which must be cultivated year after year through the support of the
most prestigious fashion schools of the capital and their students, who have
the opportunity to present themselves for the first time to the attention of
the public and the mass media.
To believe
that Italian fashion is not only based on the laurels of a magnificent past,
but is alive, pulsating of energy and creativity.
That
there is, and there must be, a dutiful generational change, carried out through
the birth of new interesting brand of womenswear, menswear and accessories.

That must be supported in every possible ways, to ensure them to
enter the market, to overcome the competition and to stand out for the extreme
quality and beauty of their design.
Among a thousand
difficulties, AltaRoma did just that, bringing on the catwalk fashion schools,
emerging brands and young designers and showing to everyone the potential of
this new made in Italy.

The entrance of Showcase spaces at AltaRoma

 

This is the last
part of the long report I wrote to tell my days at AltaRoma, where I met many
people, saw old friends and met for the first time so many talented young
promising designers.






FROM CLASSROOMS TO
THE SPOTLIGHT OF PRESTIGIOUS CATWALK OF ALTAROMA

 


 


AltaRoma brought
the young students of the most prestigious fashion schools of the Italian
capital to the catwalk for the first time, presenting their final collections
that conclude an always very challenging and definitely exciting long
educational path.




Accademia di Moda Maiani




Presentation of the ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI’s graduate fashion show through the sketches realized by its students





Among the
fashion schools attending the event, there was the prestigious ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI, a reality in the educational fashion scene that began in the 90s thanks
to the work of its founder Maria Maiani, who last year celebrated 50 years

of career in haute couture.
A school that has its
roots in the most refined and elegant sartorial tradition, but that is able to
constantly renew its image through creative collections that combine the art of
know-how with a pinch of extravagance.


Waiting the beginning of the graduate fashion show by ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI

 

 
The
collection presented by Altaroma is called “Tropical Baroque” and the
name is perfect to indicate a mixture of intricate shapes inspired by the
Italian Baroque artists, whose works contribute to making Rome the most
beautiful city in the world, with opulent and sumptuous luxury
of the forest and the beaches of tropical paradises. The school
presented the capsule collection and the creations of 11 students.

Graduate fashion show of the students Ilenia Spiriti, Patrizia Izzo and Luana Cicchinelli from ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI
  • The outfit
    designed by Ilenia Spiriti opens the scene of the graduate fashion show.

    A suit consisting of a skirt and a top thought for a “grand soiree”
    event, in different shades of green, which mixes classic shapes with rich
    floral decorations and free brushstrokes of color.
  • The
    collection of four outfits designed by Patrizia Izzo is among the most
    avant-garde of the entire show and is inspired by the conflict between
    modernity and nature.
    The colors of Indonesian tropical
    forests are imprisoned by the beautiful and rigid architectural structures,
    designed by man to stifle the freedom of nature.
    Also
    very particular are the gas masks, which depict Caravaggio and Vermeer’s works
    and are completely covered with heavy crystals, symbolizing the devastation and
    pollution caused by man.
  • A game of
    contrasts for the capsule collection by Luana Cicchinelli, who creates 3
    outfits in which the patchwork of baroque fabrics mixes with masculine lines,
    colored turbans and showy jewels made with tatting technique and decorated with
    colored gems
Graduate fashion show of the students Cristina di Santo, Eleonora Valentini and Francesca Nunzi from ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI


 


  • The four
    models designed by Cristina Di Santo compare the richness of the Baroque,
    visible in the preciousness of the fabrics of the first two outfits, with the
    poverty of jute used for knitting and decorations inspired by large leaves and
    flowers of the forest.
    All made extremely elegant by a very
    refined natural color palette.
  • Eleonora
    Valentini
    creates two very interesting outfits, which combine the opulence of
    heavy 17th century lace with sculptural and geometric shapes and
    representations of huge palm leaves, mixing in an innovative way the fabrics
    with raw cork sheets.
  • Ecstasy and
    wonder inspire the two creations of Francesca Nunzi, who mixes Bernini’s
    architectural structures and sculptures with the vibrant colors of the tropical
    forest and the wings of the hummingbird, playing with contrasts and asymmetries


Graduate fashion show of the students Giorgia Lo Pizzo, Lucia Ortiz and Marika Priori from ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI

 


 
  • In the collection
    consisting of 4 outfits made by Giorgia Lo Pizzo, the lush leaves of different
    sizes and shapes of the rich Amazon forest, become precious gold-colored
    structures that rest on graceful silhouettes, made of impalpable fabrics such
    as silk chiffon and organza
    that have the colors of dawn
    and night.
  • It’is a
    decidedly fresh the summer collection designed by Lucia Ortiz, characterized by
    four very light outfits inspired by the natives of the tropical lands.
    The young designer plays with the contrast between silks, jute, hemp
    and rubber nets, transforming the sarong and micro-tops skirts thanks to floral
    embroideries and crochet decorations
  • Marika Priori
    is inspired by the depths of the Pacific Ocean, creating two opulent outfits
    that mix many shades of blue in gradation, with iridescent brocades in the
    Baroque style, prints that reflect the coral reef and decors of shells
Graduate fashion show of the students Noemi Mattei and Sara Cimmino from ACCADEMIA DI MODA MAIANI






  • The two
    outfits created by Noemi Mattei go against the current, analyzing in a
    decidedly unexpected and interesting way the most suffocating aspects of both
    the Baroque and the forest.
    The rich and exaggerated
    forms, typical of the 17th century, containing a contrast of just
    perceptible multicolored prints, representing the discomfort of the younger
    generation towards man-made pollution and the freedom given by nature
     
  • Contamination
    between Pop art, baroque richness and tropical colors for the two outfits
    created by Sara Cimmino, who mixes white and bright fabrics with intricate
    golden lace, reviving the classic lines with strong colors combined for contrast
Accademia del Lusso
Backstage of the fashions show by ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO


 


Even ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO, both
in its Roman and Belgrade headquarters, was for the first time among the most
prestigious schools that presented their collective collection called “Innovation Catwalk” at AltaRoma,
without disappointing the expectations, proposing innovation, originality and
elegance in the fashion show of the 6 students of the fashion design course.


Collection by Viviana Rosati, from ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO in Rome

 

 
Viviana
Rosati
presented a capsule collection inspired by the variegated world of
birds, whose multicolored feathers decorate and give a touch of poetry to the
modern and contemporary structures of geometric coats, beautiful capes, dresses
and accessories.
Whether they are real or painted, the
feathers are softly inserted between the knitting wool sweater to create a
strong contrast between geometry and sensuality. They give an almost tribal
touch to silk dresses, becoming geometric patterns and so turning into almost reptile
scales, becoming sporty
for the plush dress or almost
disappearing between the ruffles and the drapery of asymmetrical mini dresses.

A very beautiful and refined collection in the choice of colors,
which combine the strong tones typical of colored feathers to neutral tones,
used as background and made strong and sensual by so much touches of red.

Collection by Lorenzo Papi, from ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO in Rome
The young
designer Lorenzo Papi is inspired by the world of bondage, creating a hyper-sexy
collection that alternates femininity and excess.
Among
his favorite materials there are black leather, Latex and vinyl, but these are
alternated with soft and almost traditional fabrics.
In
some outfits, heavy knitted cardigans play with very short miniskirts and
sporty t-shirts.
Others are inspired by the Japanese Art
of Shibari
, with knots surrounding the body and imprisoning its femininity
expressed by delicate shades of nude pink.
Others play with
the concept of asymmetry and contrast between a feminine and sexy woman and her
most aggressive and contemporary part, through dresses and suits divided in
half between leather jackets and mini-dresses, decorated parts and classic
shapes.
Collection by Maria Adele Roia, from ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO in Rome
Maria Adele
Roia
graduated some time ago and has already started working as an emerging
designer.
On the catwalk she brings a collection
characterized by strong contrasts, mixing more traditional lines with geometric
shapes and identifying in the details the strong point of her style.
The jackets are all oversized, with large shoulders and interesting
inserts of python leather or fur that create geometric shapes.
The coats alternate large quilted sleeves with masculine fabrics,
shiny leathers and classic wool in soft shades.
Exaggerated
and 19th-century-style sleeves become Pop, thanks to strong shades such as
electric violet, or are transformed into soft knit structures alternated with
vinyl skirts or made with traditional fabrics.

Collection by Anna Voronkova, from ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO in Rome

 

The ex-engineer
and graduate in business administration Anna Voronkova, has found her true
vocation chasing the dream of fashion. Student at the Accademia del Lusso in
Rome, the designer presented a collection called “The Lost Civilization”, inspired
by the ancient civilities of the Incas, Mayans and Sumerians, but with many
references also to the history of costume and with decidedly innovative touches.
Among the most beautiful outfits, there are those that mix multicolored
geometric patchwork, dresses that look like grandma’s doilies but that have an
incredibly modern look. But also suits in medieval armor style, entirely made
of woolen knit, but combined with metallic fabrics reminiscent of the ancient chain-mail
of the Knights of the Crusades, or cape-like dresses in neutral tones and with
a raw look. But above all, the beautiful suits that mix the bodysuit line with
sartorial details, such as the one in black and white that mixes different
sizes of houndstooth, or the one in warm tones worked with crochet and with
interesting rigid details that give a touch of avant-garde.

See Also
the-fashion-propellant-altaroma-sfilata-Roni-Studio-photo-by-Christian-Degenn-5

Collection by Maja Milosevic, from ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO in Belgrade
Maja
Milosevic
instead presents a refined and elegant collection, very Parisian.

The designer graduated from Accademia del Lusso in Belgrade,
titled her collection “Instant Crush” to celebrate the propensity of modern
society for everything that is immediate.
In fact, the
outfits present contrasts between modernity and tradition, sports and extreme
luxury, male and female.
The mini bomber in checked wool
is combined with the maxi skirt in transparent lace, that shows the whole body.

Heavy fur edges decorate kimono sleeves and collars. Scottish patterns in soft and delicate shades are combined to silk
shirts with jabot and puffed sleeves, while in the black and white version of
heavy wool they are used for the berets and the skirts decorated with edges of
lace.
 

Collection by Kristina Marovic, from ACCADEMIA DEL LUSSO in Belgrade
Kristina Marović,
also coming from the Belgrade school’s headquarter, brings to the catwalk an
extremely refined and elegant collection inspired by the “Swan Lake”.
As in the costumes of the famous ballet, also for the Montenegrin
designer the outfits are clouds of tulle and delicate laces.
Ostrich feathers become very light and impalpable mini-dresses, while
the shapes of the swan’s wings give life to theatrical mantle coats.
It’s the triumph of the evening dress, which has sinuous lines and
sweetheart necklines or small crinolines that play in transparency.
Also for the evening, the designer combines the concept of the black
satin tuxedo jacket with lace trousers, or the “grand soiree” dress in tulle
and black lace, that is worn almost casually with a jacket thrown over the
shoulders.
In the contrast between black and white, the
feeling is that the darker and more mysterious side of women has the upper hand.

THE EX FINALISTS OF “WHO IS ON NEXT?” ON THE CATWALKS
OF ALTAROMA
Last June
presented their collections to the jury of
“Who Is On Next?” as
finalists of the prestigious contest.
In the January
edition of AltaRoma they were finally able to present their latest collections
on the catwalk, gathering the success among the public and the recognition by
the mass media.

Fashion show by LEO STUDIO DESIGN
“Baam! Crash! Boom!”, many times we have seen these strange words in the pages
of our favorite comics, used to represent in an onomatopoeic way the sounds of
objects that break, fists and explosions.
LEO STUDIO DESIGN,
the brand created by Leonardo Macina, presents the fall/winter 2019-20
collection that is inspired by the extravagant, colorful and pleasantly kitschy
world of comics, recovering the graphics and colors loved by Andy Warhol and
Roy Lichtenstein.

Fashion show by LEO STUDIO DESIGN
The collection was among the
most pleasant that I have seen in this edition. The graphics are fun and
excessive, the combinations are strong and wisely improbable. Everything is
extreme, yet perfectly calibrated. Leonardo Macina transforms the classic
elements of women’s wardrobe and of sportswear, which winks at the Street
Style, with a touch of fantasy in the style of the 60s, creating beautiful
versions of houndstooth in unusual combinations of color.

 

Fashion show by LEO STUDIO DESIGN

He turns sweatshirts
and jogging tracksuits through color-block effects and all-over prints that
reproduce stylized lightning. Creates innovative and funny sweaters using a very
curly wool bouclé and gives a touch of elegance to the collection mixing silk
to the most sporty shapes. Uses the acid and fluorescent colors of the Swinging
London for shirts with wide, pointed collars or for the college-style
cardigans. Mixes refined jacquard fabrics and woolen lamé brocades in candy
colors. He combines primary and complementary colors in colorful and carefree
outfits and above all, he transforms his LSD logo into the 60s psychedelic
emblem, but which is used in a decidedly contemporary key.

Fashion show by MRZ Simona Marziali
Urban spirit
and contemporaneity for the “Glamour Nomad” fashion show by MRZ SIMONA MARZIALI, graduated from the Accademia Koefia and founder of her own
brand in 2012. Her collection is extremely portable, with garments stolen both
for men’s wardrobe and from sportswear, with interesting mixes of traditional
fabrics and more elaborate and contemporary silhouettes. The proportions are
all oversize, both for the maxi sweatshirts matched to the trousers with folds and
check fabrics in the style of the 40s, and for the bomber jackets that have
voluminous proportions and are made of curly wool.

Fashion show by MRZ Simona Marziali
Very special
is the work that the designer does on knitwear to make it attractive and
modern, through blocks of color that form large lines inspired by sportswear or
through cuts and special effects that ruin the surface of the oversize sweaters
and mantles. The spirit is a bit ‘nomadic and in fact some prints seem taken
from airport and parcels signs, while traveling a little’ back in time we find
vaguely grunge lines and very sartorial London-style trench coats.
SHOWCASE
ALTAROMA UNDER THE BANNER OF SUSTAINABILITY, LUXURY AND CRAFTSMANSHIP




The last day of
SHOWCASE ended with the presentation of the clothing and accessory collections
presented by both the finalists of
“Who Is On Next?” and the
emerging Italian and international brands
selected by Silvia Venturini
Fendi and Simonetta Gianfelici.



BAV TAILOR at Showcase AltaRoma





BAV TAILOR is a designer of
Indian origin, but born in London and a lover of Made in Italy. She is one of
the most interesting names in sustainable fashion, because she manages to
combine the concept of respect for the environment with an extremely luxurious
taste, great sartorial research and experimentation. Her is a sustainable
luxury project based on ethical processes and choices of ecological materials.
But the designer transforms what is normally considered a kind of fashion that
is certainly respectful, but unattractive from the stylistic point of view, in
a new proposal that has nothing to envy to the more noble brands of the ready-to-wear.
And she does so through a careful research of details, which also become
textile experimentation, and through innovative research of volumes, which
however embrace a minimalist taste and a graceful yet decisive spirit.



YEKATERINA IVANKOVA at Showcase AltaRoma

 

 

 
YEKATERINA IVANKOVA breaks with her strong colors and contrasting combinations in the
men’s fashion scene, with a collection inspired by the Indonesian and Malay
technique of printing fabrics called Ikat.
The designer
interprets this traditional technique, transforming it into multicolored and
almost shaded prints, which make the men’s garments cut and frayed to make them
extremely modern.
But above all, she uses this print to
create beautiful and innovative padded coats, with oversize shapes and street-style
spirit.

DILETTA CANCELLATO at Showcase AltaRoma
DILETTA CANCELLATO, also a
finalist of
“Who Is On Next?”, is one of the designers that I follow with greater interest, because her
collections are always extremely refined. At showcase there were her innovative
knitwear proposals. Jackets, cardigans and dresses with voluminous and
sculptural sleeves, that contrast with the most minimalist lines of the
silhouette and that become even more special thanks to contrasting edges, which
decorate the surface in a very simple but strong way. The interesting mix is
between minimalism, romanticism and extreme contemporaneity.
MTF MARIA TURRI at Showcase AltaRoma
Textile experimentation is taken to extreme
consequences in the cutting-edge garments, yet so much artisanal, made by MTF MARIA TURRI.
Finalist of
“Who Is On Next?”, the
designer presents a collection in which sobriety and minimalism are combined
with extremely experimental research in the textile field.
Maria
Teresa mixes the simple shapes of the sartorial tradition with applications in
thick threads of wool and strips of fabric, applied with rough stitching both
on the jackets and on the dresses.
The finishes are
apparently and deliberately coarse, to give the idea of handmade and give value
to the time that the artisan uses in working on her creations.
VILLATRENTUNO at Showcase AltaRoma
The emerging brand of leather
goods VILLATRENTUNO presents at Showcase a collection of opulent accessories,
inspired by the Zodiac and the forms of nature. Among the most interesting
models of handbags, there are clutch bags with metal handles in the shape of
bamboo or decorated by maxi beetles in gold or embroidered with crystals and lines
that represent the various constellations. The choice of leathers is rich, from
reptile to suede or smooth leather, and the color palette is refined, while
luxury is represented by the choice of gold as a trait d’union among all the
pieces of the collection.
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