During the edition of the Fashion Graduate Italia 2021, Istituto Marangoni took part in the fashion shows with the capsule collections of its best students.
Istituto Marangoni was founded in 1935 in Milan and in 2020 it reached an important milestone, 85 years of success in training the best professionals in the fashion world. With an educational budget of four generations of students, it has been the springboard for over 45,000 fashion professionals.
The prestigious institute does not place limits on the creativity of its talents and that is why each of them has worked on a different collection concept.
Filippo Cascinelli Staudacher
The collection “Nowhere” by Filippo Cascinelli Staudacher aims to declare that men’s fashion must be reborn now, free from the concepts of toxic and weak masculinity. The young fashion designer wisely combines classic elements of Made in Italy tailoring with more contemporary elements.
The color palette is made up of soft, light and pastel shades. He plays with interesting elements such as giant structured flowers, oversized pockets and drawstrings. The garments are structured, but at the same time they convey a new idea of feminine masculinity and fluidity.
Gian Marco Caggiari
The “È tutto blu, ci piace di più” collection by Gian Marco Caggiari is inspired by the aesthetics of Walter Albini, a well-known exponent of 1960s fashion. The fil rouge that links all the garments is the linear and geometric silhouette.
Shades of blue and light blue alternate with the colour white creating a dynamic, fresh and captivating game. Despite the clear references to the 60’s style, the fashion collection is extremely modern and contemporary. The concept of a new femininity is expressed through blue embroideries that represent the female body
Guiyin Yang with his collection “For You, You Can Be Anyone” communicates genderless culture: the union of masculine and feminine, the combination of delicacy and strength, conflict, tolerance and balance between these elements are the main issues addressed.
The emerging fashion designer plays with fabric manipulation and vibrant colours for enriching the smooth bases of the textiles.
“(S) composed” by Carlotta Brancaccio is a collection that oscillates between aesthetic extravagance and industrial modernity, where delicate and bold combinations of warm and full colours set the pace.
“Sky is Sky” by Qiongwen Qiao integrates some elements of traditional Chinese medicine to the Kidult concept, creating a narrative through its garments. The colour palette is based mainly on light and soft shades with small touches of black and red. The young fashion designer added some interesting and anatomical details on the sleeves and scarves.
Giovanni Porta’s “Blooming Concrete” collection invites us to reflect on man’s relationship with modernity and the control exercised over machines. The graduate collection is a mix of patented fabrics, oversized proportions and 70s style mood.
Antea Galiazzo with her “Your Essence” collection combines masculine style with feminine elements, creating a balance between practicality and fragility. Functionality and femininity play together with baroque decorations. The mains colours are dark and typically autumnal, playing in contrast with the gold decorations.
Luca Scarponi presents “Echi Di Quali Silenzi”, a graduate collection that seeks a new type of elegance and which proposes a new language for traditional men’s tailoring. A new man clearly inspired by the softness female palazzo trousers and the classic beige and navy duo.
Paul Majer’s “Under Construction” capsule collection is inspired by Brutalist architecture, British heritage and construction elements to communicate the changes that are taking place in the fashion industry. The emerging fashion designer plays with a mix and match of prints and patterns creating a patchwork effect.
Giuliana Baldi explores the theme of non-binary identity in “Unification”, where the train tracks, which run parallel without ever meeting, are the reference of the graduate collection. The fluidity of the cut-on-the-bias fabrics contrasts with the white lines created by the straps and the metallic grey touches.
Article by Federica Macheda