Everything seems to stand still? No way, this is the moment for us editors to look again all the collections and try to understand what will be the most important future trends for next spring/summer. Not so easy, actually. Because in the last few years fashion trends are becoming even more floating and uncertain, because in many magazines and articles we’ve read that trends are disappearing in favor of a major creative freedom and self interpretation of the designer’s proposals, because this society is liquid and difficult to understand.
However, is beautiful to find a litlle bit of order after years of chaos. So, let’s start to take a look to the future of avant-garde fashion with our trend reports (in 3 episodes) directly from New York Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week.
Sleeves are probably the most transformed and important parts of next summer clothing. Big and voluminous, the leg of mutton sleeves are coming back from the Nineteenth century and become the absolutely protagonists of the outfits, often matched with more simple shapes as by AALTO, PASKAL, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, BROGNANO and ANNE SOFIE MADSEN, while ANREALAGE chooses a real complicate sihlouette more emphasized by the sleeves.
Shine, shine, shine. This is one of the keywords of the latest fashion weeks. Surfaces bright as metals and not only the classic gold (at THE BLONDS and UJOH) or the most appreciated silver (seen in the runways of LISELORE FROWIJN, LUTZ HUELLE, JOURDEN, HERON PRESTON, R13, GRINKO, LA PARGAY at FASHION SHENZEN, SHRIMPS, FILLES A’ PAPA, SADIE WILLIAMS and FYODOR GOLAN), but also bronze and copper (MARQUESA ALMEIDA) and all the colors from pastels to red or acid green (by ANGEL CHEN, DAIZY SHELY, MARC JACOBS and the magnificent GARETH PUGH), multicolor and like a candy plastic wrapper at RICHARD QUINN. All fabrics are good to be metallized, from leather, to lurex, organdy or shiny textures completely embroidered with sequins.
Petals will bloom everywhere next spring. We’ll have plenty to choose from many types and effects. Three-dimensional as beautiful bouquets for PASKAL, ANNE SOFIE MADSEN, JOURDEN, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, THE BLONDS and NAMILIA, tapestry look for MAISON MARGELA and LUTZ HUELLE, inspiration Seventies for VIVIENNE WESTWOOD BY ANDREAS KRONTHALER, TSUMORI CHISATO, JUNYA WATANABE, VAQUERA, MARC JACOBS, CLAUDIA LI and RICHARD QUINN (who mixes different floral textures for an incredible all-over effect). For ANTONIO MARRAS, BROGNANO, BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE, COMME DES GARçONS and UNDERCOVER the inspiration is coming from Rococò style and Reinassance paintings, while flowers become wide and really romantic in the creations of DELPOZO, CHALAYAN and OFF-WHITE, small bouquets in the fashion shows of MASHA MA and NIHL (young talent coming from Parsons School of Fashion), for who flowers become the excuse for extraordinary handmade embroideries tha just cover the male nudity in a sexy and extravagant body. Pop version instead in the colored prints of NATASHA ZINKO, DAMIR DOMA and A.F. VANDEVORST