The new way to wear jeans is absolutely tailormade and this is the favorite fabric of many cutting-edge designers. The discolored
effect and light-colored denim are proposed by MARQUES ALMEIDA, NEHERA,
UNRAVEL, MOON YOUNG HEE and ESTEBAN CORTAZAR. Jackets
and dresses are filled with ruffles by LEAL DACCARETT and JAMIE WEI HUANG, couture details from KENAXLUNG at FASHION GUERILLA show,
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN and ANTONIO MARRAS. Ripped, cutted and second hand by GIPSY SPORT, FAUSTINE STEINMETZ and the young VENUS LO, student of the Parsons School of Fashion.
The most classic
of the shirts, the white one or those with small stripes, now have new proportions
and choose the length to manifest all their character trasforming into
dresses and small chemisiers. The sleeves become too long (ESTEBAN CORTAZAR, GIPSY SPORT, ANDRE WALKER), the
dresses become long shirts to wear in the evenings or even for weddings (VERA WANG, BROGNANO), but they are really perfect for the day
(CHALAYAN, ANDREAS KRONTHALER for VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, LUTZ HUELLE, ASAI at FASHION EAST) and are also worn by men as
a dress (NIHL from Parsons School of Fashion, VAQUERA)
globalization now the world has no boundaries and although we are
experiencing a generalized crisis and small and big conflicts and
tensions, with their artistic sensibility fashion designers manifest the
will of union and peace through their inspirations. That view in the runways is an urban and global tribe that blends elements drawn from the ethnic traditions of various countries. Inspiration
China, including tigers, dragons, traditional landscapes and silks for
YEOHLEE, CFDA, ANGEL CHEN, MARQUES ALMEIDA, NAMILIA, MING YUE or HEYI at FASHION SHENZEN show, YOHJI YAMAMOTO and ADAM LIPPES.
Always
on eastern, but more minimal and zen, are inspired UJOH, THE SIRIUS, CLAUDIA LI, V FILES, RICK OWENS, UMA WANG, NEHERA, GIPSY SPORT,
ANDRE WALKER and DI GAO, young designers from Parsons School of Fashion, which presented a capsule collection inspired by the oriental architecture tradition transfigured in wearable technology.
South
America’s warm atmospheres are instead on the catwalks of
TSUMORI CHISATO and DELPOZO, the preciousness of the arabesque
decorations is present in MARC JACOBS fashion show, while we have seen African and Aboriginal
rhythms and colors in the creations of SADIE WILLIAMS,
ASAI and MATTY BOVAN at FASHION EAST show, ANTONIO MARRAS, ESTEBAN CORTAZAR. True global designer, inspired by the Earth Planet in its entirety is ISSEY MIYAKE, which reports the earth’s geography in magnificent prints on technological and pleated fabrics.
designers know the weather forecasts well in advance and the next spring/summer will be particularly cold, or we are seeing the usual creative
follies. However, next season we will
be dressed in feathers, which will decorate with joy the TSUMORI CHISATO and HUISHANG ZHANG clothes, with a touch of coquetry the creations by DELPOZO, THE BLONDS, MARQUES ALMEIDA, NAMILIA and the young designers of PROJECT RUNWAY, while will be a important conceptual decorations for MAISON MARGELA, V FILES, UNDERCOVER and ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
Halfway
between fetishism, hyper decorative style and comfort is this trend
that wants everything tied with laces, bows and parts of clothes that
knot or twist around the body. Ribbons, bands and
lashes force the body and clothing into unusual positions, closing the silhouette that seems to
retreat in itself (THE SIRIUS, CHRISTOPHER KANE, MAISON DE FAUX, ANN DEMEULEMEESTER, ANREALAGE, NEHERA). Large knotted bows decorate the dresses and tops of LEAL DACARETT, XIAO LI, A.F. VANDEVORST, CLAUDIA LI and VAQUERA. The
sleeves of jackets, shirts and sweaters knotted as when we throw them
on the shoulders with a certain nonchalance, instead become the decorative parts
of dresses and suits by Y-PROJECT, SACAI, ESTEBAN CORTAZAR, MARC JACOBS and
LUCIO VANOTTI.
The lightest of fabrics, tulle, will become a real cloud next season. Used
in large quantities to create soft and voluminous effects, this fabric
will be curled and placed in small tufts with a three-dimensional and
texturized effect (NOIR KEI NINOMIYA and THOM BROWNE), will give life to soft flounces overlayed that will float to each movement (PROJECT RUNWAY, PAM HOGG, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, OFF-WHITE, BROGNANO), will have large balloon
shapes or will become foamy mantels (MATICEVSKI, UNRAVEL, TONI MATICEVSKI). Or they will be light and delicate brushstrokes in the dress-painting of the very young CAROLINE HU, from
Parsons School of Fashion.