Third and last appointment with all the young talented students of the best Italian fashion schools we met at FASHION GRADUATE ITALIA.
It’s always a pleasure to have the chance to know young brilliant minds, be touched by their vivid imagination and live the emotion of their first fashion shows.
|ACCADEMIA DI BELLE ARTI DI BRERA at Fashion Graduate Italia|
During this event Accademia di Brera presented a group of young designers really talented and creative:
YI YANG “Equality among sentient beings”: the collection starts from a
real life event that involved the designer in the Milan subway. Helped
by only an hobo man during an attempted robery, she was impressed by the
contrast between the glamour of the city and the poor conditions and
damaged clothes of the man, whose serenity can be associated with the
Budda’s patience. All this concept is transformed into one-sleeve dresses,
asymmetries and irregular shapes.
MARTORANA & SIMONE BARTOLOTTA “Dark nymphs”: a journey in the myth
of an enchanted wood, among sirens, muses and goddesses, symbols of an
ideal woman strong and dreamy at the same time. A collection that exalts
the femal body through transparencies, intricate embroideries, sensual
silhouettes and a sophisticated combination of grey and black.
COTUGNO “Relikt”: relic, as simple piece of matter, and relict, as
memory of ancient glory now abandoned. Two themes that play together
in this sophisticated collection in which classic lines, soft and
refined, are influenced by Napolitan popular traditions and are
suggestively mixed with modern versions of the relic, transformed into
x-ray films, embroidered sacred-hearts and ex-voto.
CAROSELLA “Paraphilia”: the dress becomes like a shell, a protection
from external dangers which allows the return to the original
completeness and confuses genres. 6 dresses that express contrasting
emotions like slavery, feticism, fun, sufference, pain and pleasure in a
unique modern obsession called paraphilia, a psychic abnormality that
chases the search of pleasure and satisfaction of insticts.
- NANDIN ERDENE ”Technology
and nature are partners or enemies?”: a collection inspired
by contemporary architecture and nature details. Using combination of
modern geometric motifs with floral elements and a strong color palette
wine red, teal green, matte grey, sunny yellow and candy
pastel pink, adds bright freshness that gives the scene a playful modern
The message that the designer wants to express is that we should stop
seeing technology and nature as sparring partners, and start
concentrating on helping them to dance.
FACCIA “Onesizefitsall”: trying to overcome the deep sense of
discomfort caused by aesthetic stereotypes imposed by our modern society,
this collection seen a return to the initial meaning of fashion, in
whic a dress was thought as secure refuge for human body. This
interesting starting point turns into a no-size concept, with soft
leather and wool dresses, made with artisanal and sustainable
techniques, that can be adapted to every kind of female body.
JING LIU “Assenza-mancanza”: beauty is not seen by the designer as a
universal concept, but can be interpreted in different ways. What can
appear imperfect or uncomplete should can be considered beautiful. A
collection born dismantling clothes in many pieces and assembling them
again to recreate something new.
- CHENJIE WANG “Whisical space”: the collection is inspired by the artist Maurits Conelis Escher and his geometrical construction in continue evolution with concepts of mathematics, geometry and simmetry. With a boyfriend oversize style, the designer creates 3-dimensional female garments with natural materials and surprising laser-cut effects.
- SARA BEHBUD “Unrepeatable repetition”: fashion as union of two opposite impulses, imitation and differentiation, as ethernal return to something already known. Starting by the 70s shapes, bicolor delicate combinations and the use of shiny silk fabrics, the designer gives life to new soft silhouettes and modern fluid lines.
|The creations of BAHAR MOSLENZADEH, DILETTA LODOLA and MAHNAZ SEYEDEKHTIARY from ACCADEMIA DI BELLE ARTI DI BRERA|
About Accademia di Brera, I want to make a special mention to the fashion and costume designers who presented their creations during the ehxibition, because I found them particularly creative:
|DOMUS ACADEMY at FASHION GRADUATE ITALIA|
For Fashion Graduate Italia, the school made a selection of its 6 best students and ex-students:
COMENOI “Imperfection rose”: art inspiration for a collection that
looks at Dada movement and its artists, Marcel Duchamp, Man Ray and
Hannah Hoch, who took waste and common objects transforming them into new
art pieces. The designer mixes dada elements with punk and gothic
reminescenses, creating male garments that can be matched with each
other to create unconventional combinations.
ROSANO “New hobo”: a day in a cosmopolitan city, taking inspiration
directly by the people that is running or is taking a coffee or
is walking on the street. Simply observing this frenetic world, the
designer creates a collection made with floating dresses, oversize coats
and knitwear, bright evening dresses, so light and nonchalante.
BARUAH “Nocturnal love”: inspired by a documentary on Magdalene House,
inhabitated by young orphan girls or considered immoral by the prissy
society, the collection is divided into two parts. The first presents
romanian traditional clothes revisited with a modern touch, the second
takes feticish aestethics and subversive ideas from Dante’s hell to
underline the connection between young vitality and old repression.
- KANGLEI WANG “Autysm”: inspired by the disease that afflict many children and adults with great communicative difficulties, the collection is made of wide silhouettes that permitted the creation of an intimate space between the body and the external world. Buckels and straps delimitate this space, while obsessive phrases printed on garments and chaotic pattern taken by autystic children’s drawings express the desire of communication.
TARKULWARANONT “Hand me down”: inspired by the flowers used as symbol
of a strong femininity in the works of two photographers, Ren Hang and
Araki Nobuyoshi, and using vintage and second-hand clothes bought on a
Milan flea market, the designer cuts and sews again tatters of different
stories, already lived by unknown women, to give again life to a new
type of fashion, poetic and brutal at the same time.
- YBEI LIANG “Men-tal-ent”: taking inspiration by the avant-gard japanese movie of the Twenties “A page of madness” settled in a mental hospital, the designer analyzes the subconscious images, the nightmares and dreams of the patients in oppostition to the vision of normal people, through sihlouettes that recall the patientes uniforms and the japanese kimonos in colorful printed cotton and silk.
AFOL MODA is a unique reality in the Milan fashion schools panorama, because it’s a public entity which offers an high quality professional specialization in fashion design, with particular focus on the technical skills. With annual and short courses, the school prepares its students to all the aspects of fashion jobs, from research and design, to pattern making and tailoring, thanks to theorical activities made by tutors, visiting professors and professionals combined with laboratory and practical excercises. Many AFOL’s students found jobs in important fashion brands and won renowned fashion prizes like Mittelmoda and Next Generation.
|AFOL MODA at FASHION GRADUATE ITALIA|
One of the founder of PSFM (Piattaforma Sistema Formativo Moda), AFOL MODA presented at Fashion Graduate Italia 6 graduate collections:
- ALICE RIVA “Liquida”: inspired the the homonym graphic novel by Lisa Biggi, the collection is a poetic vision of a rainy day, in which a woman trasforms her problems and thoughts in liquid matter, going beyond the material surface of reality. The idea is realized through transparent surfaces and shiny fabrics that are matched in contrast with black and white solid colors.
- ANDREA BERGONTI “Metamorphosis, the myth of Kitsune”: the opposition of the two souls of the japanese mith of Kitsune, a spirit that can be fox and human at the same time, expressing two different characteristics. The good feelings are represented by geometrical shapes and soft colors, while the bad side is represented by soft shapes and dark tones, in a perennial game between the opposites.
- CHIARA FORNELLI & LISA RUSCONI “Coconut blue”: a dynamic collection thought for a young and feminine woman, designed by the artistic duo interpretating the classic two-pieces and swimsuits with modern geometrical shapes and the contrast between fresh and basic colors like turquoise, turtledove and white.
- LETIZIA BARBERO “Metaforma”: a collection that represents the transformation of matter and shapes, from stasis to dynamism, through the contrast of heavy and shiny fabrics and volumes that increase outfit after outfit to flow at each movement. Black and white are the absolute protagonists and play toghether with embroideries and irregular stains, with some red touch as vibrant interference.
- PAOLO AND CLAUDIA COLOMBO: a young and contemporary menswear collection that is influenced by street wear and aviation, with technical fabrics and gros-grain ribbons mixed with more traditional men’s fabrics like pied de poule and tartan checks, comfy silhouettes and geometrical details.
- VALENTINA SMIRIGLIA “Le petite moi”: the only childrenswear collection presented at the event, is immediately noted for the fresh proposals and its young and tender protagonists. The collection is designed for a chic little girl who loves to play with her mother accessories, with a retro style modernized through minimal lines and unusual combinations of colors and geometrical patterns.
Founded in 1999, LABA Libera Accademia di Belle Arti in Brescia is an interesting school able to combine the long tradition in fashion production of its territory with a vanguard vision. With 3-years Bachelor courses and 2-years Ma courses, the Academy offers a wide range of professional educational paths, that goes from fashion design to graphic and communication. The innovative artistic approach is one of the most interesting characteristic of the school, which gives to its students the technical and cultural knowledges boosting their creativity.
|LABA at FASHION GRADUATE ITALIA|
The graduate collections presented by LABA is a bit different from the others, because the school presented a common theme developed by applying the different visions of the students. “InGenesi” is the main concept that wants to recreate the dialogue between body and dress, emphasizing the communicative power of the last one. No more thought as simple respectable armour to protect and hide our identity, now the dress is seen as communicative medium to remove the identity from anonymity, revealing the true essence of each individual towards his own genesis.
Developed in four thematic journeys, “Cross over”, “DNA tracce di memoria”, “Perpetuum” and “Intimate architecture” the collection’s dresses are realized by:
ANDREA FUSARDI, ANNA BULLA, DALILA DI DONNA, SOFIA MONTINI, ROBERTO GHIRARDINI, GIULIO MORINI, JESSICA PIZZOL, VANESSA MIGLIASSO, MICHELA COSTILI, ELEONORA BEGATTI, ROBERTA SIANI, ALESSANDRA DUO’, GIULIA ARRIGONI, LIA CERVI, IRENE BAGGIO, JESSICA MASSOLI, CHIARA CARMELI, LAURA BANDERA.
Founded in 1951 in Rome, KOEFIA ACADEMY is one of the most important reference points of the fashion education in Italy, particularly focused on the design and tailoring techniques of Haute Couture. Through 3-years European Bachelor courses and 2-years European Master courses, the students are able to develop the entire design process from the trend research and the sketches, to the patternmaking method based on the moulage technique and the realization of really high quality prototypes. Feather on the cap of the school is also the focus on artisanal techniques such as embroidery, knitting, millinery and accessories. The student’s creations are presented every years with an importatn fashion show during the ALTAROMA ALTAMODA event.
|KOEFIA ACADEMY graduate collection|
At Fashion Graduate Italia, KOEFIA showed the final work creations in an exhibition stand, with clothes learned from a collective collection intitled “LA STRADA/A DENIM STORY”, inspired by Fellini’s movie, that showed the cruel life and surviving expedients in the great circus of city life. Developed in collaboration with important productive brands like Imatex, Wash Italia, Lectra and the prestigious Maison Balenciaga, the 46 students of the third year worked transforming denim fabric into many amazing creations.
Here a selection of the best creations by:
ELISA ALESSANDRINI: oversize manipulation of the trousers traditinal pattern to create an “hobo” look enriched by the transparent game of organdy on denim.
CHIARA CALICCHIA: long proportions and movement effects for the knit dress matched with a beautiful denim coat completely embroidered by hand with bold faces and long loose threads.
ANASTASIA DEL VECCHIO: a strong and tribal man who worn with indifference and nonchalance layers of garments apparently disorganized and unfinished
FEDERICA MAGGINI: new-gen radical chic style, with the denim skirt that creates the illusion of a wide leg trousers
FRANCESCA MEDRI: rich embroideries completely handmade framed by a precious baroque decoration and matched to sculptoreal trousers.
MANUELA PANCI: holes, asymmetries and unfinished look for the denim and organdy pieces that reveals unexpected details and high mastery tailoring
CLAUDIA PORCU: a new way to use fur, which become a colorful touch and a houndstooth pattern effect on the surface of denim just covered by organdy (so modern!)
ZHU YUN-ZHU: avant-gard look for the total white outfit builted with architectural shapes and gentled by 3-dimensional knit and fur.
Dear reader, if you want to know more about fashion school world stay tuned!
Really soon we will start with a series of articles to exlpain how to choose the better school for you and we’ll make a comparation among all the best schools of Italy.