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The positivity of colors! Interview with the young designer Valentina Poltronieri

The positivity of colors! Interview with the young designer Valentina Poltronieri


Happy and
concrete. With these two words we can describe the work of Valentina
Poltronieri, young talent coming from Istituto Marangoni and Istituto Secoli. I
met her in the spaces of Contemporary Mood at White Show for the presentation
of the fall/winter 2018-19 collection. Here our chat…

Valentina
Poltronieri is only 24 years old, but is incredibly determined to reach a dream,
become a well-known fashion designer with her namesake brand. A not easy
purpose, especially in times like these, but Valentina has many important
characteristics that look promising: conviction, good organization, optimism
and talent.

She invited
me to her trunk show for the presentation of the new fall/winter collection
hosted in the Contemporary Mood at White Show Opificio 31, a space dedicated to
young designers and emerging brands. I already know her for the participation
to the Italian Fashion Talents Awards, but this was an interesting occasion to
take a closer look to her joyful and colorful products and discover something more
about this nice girl. 

Valentina Poltronieri


Because
Valentina always has a smile on. And a particular infectious enthusiasm when
she speaks about her creations and experiences. Passionate about everything
related to design, from the more technical to architecture and especially
fashion, she attended a 3-years undergraduate Fashion Design course in the
prestigious Istituto Marangoni and then a Master in Womenswear Pattern-Making
in the famous Istituto Secoli, both in Milan. 

 

Valentina Poltronieri’s outfit from the spring/summer 2018 collection “Techno Icon”




In February
2017 Valentina launched her namesake label, presenting in October her first
colorful and futuristic collection. The spring/summer collection entitled “Techno Icon” was dedicated to a real
go-getter woman who express herself through strong and extreme outfits
characterized by geometrical shapes and technological fabrics. 

Elements used also
in the fall/winter collection, “The Age
of Icons”
, which plays with the same concepts, but with a more
sophisticated look inspired by the past, from 50s to 90s.

 

Valentina Poltronieri’s outfit from the fall/winter 2018-19 collection “The Age of Icon”


In
the meanwhile she began to work for a manufacturing company in Vigevano as
fashion designer and product developer for the internal line “Scarlet”. A very
busy girl, which addresses everything with positivity and professionalism.

So I was
really happy to have the occasion to have a little chat just after her trunk
show. 

You have studied at Istituto Marangoni and
Istituto Secoli. How was your experience in these two important fashion
schools? 
I attended
the 3-years course in Fashion Design and the a 2-years Master to better learn
patternmaking and tailoring for womenswear. In fact everything you can see in
my collection, all the samples and patterns I made by myself. 

About my
educational pathways were both very positive experiences, because they are both
exceptional schools. About Marangoni, when someone see this name on your
curriculum already knows that you’ve reached a good level. The schools were
great experiences especially about training, because the teachers are very good
and are all person coming from the real fashion world, who have a job in
addition to the teaching. All-around professionals.
 
Are there differences between the two schools? 
Istituto
Secoli’s atmosphere is more relaxed, while people who attend the Marangoni is
more trendy and fancy. At Secoli are all more quite, nonchalant, both teachers
and students. Maybe because it’s more technical. Instead Marangoni is able to
let you express what’s in your mind, bringing out your creativity.
 

Valentina Poltronieri’s outfit from the spring/summer 2018 collection “Techno Icon”

When you started your experience as
entrepreneur with the launch of the label?
 
I launched
the brand on February 2017, only after a month and half from my degree. I
graduated on 13the December 2016 and soon on February, during the Fashion
Week,  I had my first event. Because the
school contacted me after viewing some of my clothes on internet, asking if I
was willing to make a shoot with photographers in a famous club. I presented
two dresses of my spring/summer collection. Colorful. That was the launch of
the brand.
 
What were the greatest difficulties you found? 
Well, for
me is quite simple because everybody said me that I have a good organization,
so I find it easy to organize everything always being within the timeframe and
this is a good thing. However the difficulties are many. At the beginning is to
be young, so to establish a reputation is the greatest difficulty. Then there’s
the help that doesn’t come soon to create and realize the collection. I’m alone
most of the time, maybe with some little help from some seamstress I know,
women who already work for others. 

Valentina Poltronieri at Contemporary Mood space at White Show fall 2018

Practically you realized the prototypes, but at
the time when you have to sell your creations what are the difficulties about
production? 
Production
is made by the manufacturing company in which I work, where I’m the fashion
designer and head of product of an internal line called “Scarlet”. For this and
my own line I should say that the difficulty in production is to control that
everything’s okay, in standard with all requirements. Like in a car, if a bolt
is missing the car doesn’t work. I have to be coherent both with seamstress and
patternmakers that follow me, taking care that everything proceeding properly
and everybody follow the timeline. The assembly-line is essential. 
This organizational capacity is innate or did
they teach you at school?
I think
that it’s innate, that’s me. Also at school I saw people who, despite being
excellent, were not so much organized, who had never respected the deadlines.
You need to be organized. Is for this reason that in the company where I work
they enabled me to progress to senior position, because they have already seen
what I’m capable.
 

Valentina Poltronieri at Contemporary Mood space at White Show fall 2018

You are continuing this collaboration with this
fashion house, which is producing your line, designed entirely by you. How are
you able to plan all this?
 
Yes, I make
the samples while the company will make the production. It’s possible because
when you are young you have always the desire to move forward. I’m 24 years old,
I want to make everything without conserving my strength. To work you have to
learn to manage the timeline, to working hardly. I can work  even 14-14 hours a day never stopping, but
when I reach some goal the 15 hours doesn’t matter.
 

Valentina Poltronieri at work

Of course you are very young, but it seems to
me that things are going well. What are the best satisfaction you’ve had until
now?
 
Entering the job market, the best satisfactions are when there are people who compliment
me for what I’m doing. And having a good and direct feedback by the press is a
beautiful thing, because also if they don’t know you they want to discover and
know something more. This is a really positive feedback. Coming from Marangoni
and Secoli is more easy to enter the job market and this is a benefit. There
are many satisfactions, everything I do, also a simple trunk show like this, a
simple fashion show. But applauses and appreciations of many people, especially
compared with other fashion show I saw. This makes me realize that I’m on the
right way, motivating me to continue what I like.
 

“Techno Icon” collection by Valentina Poltronieri

Speaking about your collection, I’ve seen the
spring/summer and the fall/winter collections that are both a triumph of
bright colors expressing the will to live.
What are your inspirations?
My
inspiration regarding myself, because I’m totally 100% full of joy! Everybody
should always smile, always. So the colors are what give me joy and energy.
Also for who sees them. Looking colors they have a different gaze, there’s a
kind of stuff that makes them dream or remember something. That’s color for me,
especially for summer collections. Black is abolished, stop to total black. Ok,
everyone use it because it’s our comfort-zone, but when you create something
long live the colors!
 

Valentina Poltronieri’s outfit from the spring/summer 2018 collection “Techno Icon”

Color for you is also expression of a kind of
emotion?

Is more a
kaleidoscope and an harmony. Of pink and violet. I like to use the same nuance. Here
for example I presented pink, violet, fuchsia making a nuance with black and
white. In the spring/summer collection instead I decided 5 bright colors that
give joy. Blue, fuchsia and green. All colors of Nature, of light. Especially
with these eco-leather that I used the color is more accentuated, more visible.
 

Valentina Poltronieri’s outfit from the fall/winter 2018-19 collection “The Age of Icon”
Yes, it vibrates!
Yes, in
fact also in the choice of materials I’m really picky! Because I don’t like the
materials used by the most designers, so I research materials or I make by
myself.  I create double fabrics or
laser-cuts, I don’t look for someone who make them. When I make the prototypes
I try to do everything by myself, also the embroideries, trying to make things
that I really like, customizing all without asking to none except for prints,
supported by other suppliers. But if I can, I try to create in an original way. 
Valentina Poltronieri’s outfit from the fall/winter 2018-19 collection “The Age of Icon”
Main inspiration is color, but about
geometrical cuts?
 
Geometrical
shapes come from my own experience, because I attended the high school for
surveyors. It’s always in the context of design, because my interest comes from
it. I always like geometry, also concerning patternmaking, it’s all connected.
I used the triangle because it has a shape more interesting for me comparing to
other. It can play well on decorations, giving movement and a sense, creating
motifs. I can also play with triangles on patterns of skirts, for example.
Patterns play with geometry.
 

Valentina Poltronieri’s outfit from the spring/summer 2018 collection “Techno Icon”

Projects for the future? What are you going to
do when you grow up?
(laughing)
This job! Of course I have projects! I’ll publish the fall/winter collection
with the Italian press and maybe also international. Something will happen in
Paris, because my press agency is in Paris. I will have a fashion show on May
at the International Fashion Week with Young Generation of Camera Moda Giovani,
to which I took part last year. So I have been directly contacted by the
director of the event. It was great to get a call from a so important person.
 
A sign that your things are appreciated for
your force and energy.
 
Yes it was
wonderful! But I have to work to the new collection. I’d like to participate to
two fashion contests, hoping to be accepted. One is the “Città dei Sassi” in
Matera. Let’s see if they’ll accept my collection.
 
It’s a contest usually oriented on Haute
Couture and evening dresses but…
Yeah, but they
are opening to young designers. So I said, why not? They know my things, I have
also evening pieces and however I can create something more, there’s time. The
other contest I like to attend is Mittelmoda, that is probably harder because there
are many participants, all high-level, coming from the best fashion schools.
I
have to try, never give up! 
Evening dress by Valentina Poltronieri
Practically you are going ahead with your
brand, but speaking about communication you started with a blog…
Yes I
started with the blog trying to make myself known. It’s a more personal blog, I’m
not looking for millions of followers! It’s good to communicate a part of my
world, to have feedbacks that are few but however important. I’ve always liked
to write, so I would never do a blog with only images as many others, but more
like your that speaks about details and insights. 
Valentina wearing her creations
Because looking only photos
make blogs slightly more than Instagram, instead I like to write and I really
make it for this reason. I love to inform people about new things and new
unknown brands, not always the same. In fact in a post published on my blog I
explained that I don’t’ want to communicate about famous brands, are not
interesting for me. I prefer to introduce what is really new now.
 
Yes I’m agree and that’s why I’m here!
Otherwise
is useless! Everybody’s looking for the collections of Gucci or Prada, that’s
enough!
 
They already have their right media coverage,
but make way for young!
 
Everybody
knows them, even my grandmother! They don’t need a broader communication.
Coming here and meeting other young I’ve seen really high-level items,
well-crafted and with a strong communication. What I regret is that many people
don’t know all this. There are many talented young but unknown. They work
really hard maybe just to perfectly make a sample of a bag that then are unsold
or, even worse, are copied! Because we are full of creativity, at 100%!
Surely you are in the peak of vitality! Thanks
for this beautiful interview!
Thanks to you!
———–
To better
know Valentina Poltronieri and her joyful world these are her contacts:
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