|New embroideries for Haute Couture designed by the Accademia Koefia’s students|
|Charles Frederick Worth|
Passing time, with the increasing success of ready-to-wear, female dressmakers saw the progressive reduction of their client base until almost disappearing except for bridal and occasion apparel, while male tailors resisted for a strict group of business men and new dandies always in search of impeccable sartorial cuts.
|Bespoke tailor of Savile Row|
Couture, after the great success of the post-war period, relaunched itself in the legendary 90s, thanks to the genius of
designers like Alexander McQueen or John Galliano for Dior. Today it’s
living its second life with a new generation of designers who expreiment new technologies like Iris Van Herpen or Gareth Pugh and old lions
like Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel and Fendi or the evergreen Giorgio
Armani, but also thanks to a downsizing of its luxurious wastefullness
and hyperbolic visions in favor of a more sober mood suitable with these
|Making of a 3-d printed dress by Iris Van Herpen (source: www.3ders.org)|
Widespread in the 50s and 60s to dress the middle class often copying lines and trends from its big sister Haute Couture, female tailoring suffered more than all the cut-throat competition of ready-to-wear and fast fashion with their countless cheap and easy to find proposals, reducing its market only to a traditional target of clients or for special occasions.
|A student of Accademia Koefia learning the sartorial techniques|
There are always the not-standard-size women who need made-to-measure because the market insn’t able to answer to their needs with the right products, but who have now a new consciousness about their femininity and beauty, desiring clothes that make them feel special. There are genderless people who need something that express their personality, or simply people who want to rediscover the comfort and beautiful perfection of an hand-made garment.
|Outfit by BIZARRE COUTURE|
|Collection “Alle-Forme” by Enraciné Bespoke|
feminism, according to which sizes are too strict for a modern woman and
can’t represent her individuality. Her style can seem classic at first
sight, but the research of inspirations and the approach to design make
her first collection “Alle-Forme” interesting and decidedly
contemporary: the female suite inspired by nature become the surfaces to
explore the possibilities of color through gradation of embroideries
that make the sartorial details really pop.
|Creations by Kraken Counter Couture|