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20 new talents from the best Italian fashion schools at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA (part 2)
THE FASHION PROPELLANT
THE FASHION PROPELLANT

 

 
Among the many textile novelties and the new
trends for the spring/summer 2020, MILANO UNICA has decided to support the
future of Italian fashion through the project “Eyes On Me”, thanks to
which 20 young fashion designers, who have just come out of the most important fashion
schools of Italy, had the occasion to present their graduated collections to an
expert audience always looking for new talents.

As we have already seen in the previous post, “Eyes
On Me”
was an important project that allowed many young talents to present
themselves for the first time with their work and their portfolios to an
audience of buyers and talent scout in the 28th edition of MILANO UNICA.

 
The project is born from the collaboration
between Milano Unica, the PSFM
Piattaforma Sistema Formativo Moda and
Fashion Graduate Italia, the graduated fashion week in which many of them had
already had the opportunity to show off their final collections at the end of
their fashion design courses.

The exhibition spaces of “Eyes On Me” at Milano Unica
 
At “Eyes on me” instead, the
relationship between these guys and the audience was more direct and each of
them had the possibility not only to show their creations and their portfolios, but also to explain
what inspired them and how they have come to this result through a long design
process.

The fashion schools involved into the project “Eyes On Me” at Milano Unica
 
That’s how I entered their world made of
drawings, experimentation, desire for success and aspirations for the future.
Here is the second part of the article dedicated to these 20 young designers
and their graduated collections.
 
 
ANTONIO CORPOSANTO

 

Antonio Corposanto was one of the true
revelations of the fashion shows at the Fashion Graduate Italia in the last
edition of the end of October. Coming from the
ACCADEMIA DI BELLE ARTI DI BRERA, Antonio has given a decidedly refined and creative glamour
impulse to the collective show of this prestigious school, in whose DNA art is
the main driver of every cultural expression. 

Antonio Corposanto, from Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

Antonio managed to create a very concrete work giving also a strong artistic contribution to a very
mature collection in
stylistic terms. “Wild Form” is inspired by the world of Black
Africa and on the catwalk this talented designer has brought a powerful female
image, a sensual and wild woman, but at the same time extremely elegant. 

Portfolio by Antonio Corposanto, from Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera

The
collection starts from the interest expressed by the designer for the
materials. In the elaboration of his own concept, he started from the fabrics
he personally created in over two months of work, basing on the concepts of
contrast between smooth leather, exotic leathers and suede, raffia and twine intertwinements,
applications on gold knit and tulle, going to recreate beautiful tribal masks
used as an expression of strength and primitive beauty. 

Capsule collection by Antonio Corposanto, from Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera, at Fashion Graduate Italia 2018

ENRICA DE SANTIS

 
I already had the opportunity to talk about the
collection “Perturbatio Delirae Mentis” created by Enrica De Santis,
because she was among the students to whom I dedicated an article during the
Graduation Days of ISTITUTO SECOLI. The thesis collection is inspired by one of
the most serious mental illnesses, schizophrenia, and for this reason I was
intrigued by the choice of this challenging telematics by such a young girl.
Enrica explained to me that in the past she had the opportunity to come into
contact with sick people and from that experience she was particularly
impressed. 

Enrica De Santis, from Istituto Secoli, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

Desiring to express something deeply felt and really interesting for
her work for the thesis, Enrica has elaborated a complex collection, extremely
rich on a conceptual level, in which every movement determined by the
versatility and interchangeability of her garments seems to bring back to the
thousand delirious forms that this disease can create on people’s heads.

Enrica De Santis, from Istituto Secoli, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

The
designer creates garments that intersect with each other, which are worn
overlapping, that can be disassembled and used individually or create fantastic
assemblies. In search of strong contrasts, she used a combination of light and
heavy fabrics, patterns printed with pansies, maxi houndstooth and camouflage or
solid colors in autumn shades, ranging from silk chiffon to raw bouclé wool,
from organza to the wool and plush, also using denim and quilted fabrics that
play with the shine of taffeta.

Outfit from the capsule collection by Enrica De Santis, from Istituto Secoli, at Fashion Graduate Italia 2018




MARIA AURELIA LATTARULI

 

Maria Aurelia Lattaruli is one of the most
interesting students of the school AFOL MODA. At Milano Unica she brings her collection
“Concrete”, inspired by the clean lines of modernist architecture,
with garments that have straight or oversize shapes and unusual details, which
give a touch of extreme modernity to the fabrics draped on the body and to the
silhouettes constructed through rigorous geometric shapes. 

Maria Aurelia Lattaruli, from Afol Moda, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

Very interesting are
the details, that the young designer inserts inside her collection to give
movement to the garments, as well as a precise combination of materials and
colors, which light up flashes of yellow light on the dark cool wool or create
diluted colorings on beautiful tailored coats and on linen gauze dresses. 

Collection by Maria Aurelia Lattaruli, from Afol Moda

The
leather accessories are handmade and decorated with a golden metal mesh tube with rigid core, that
creates geometric and almost sculptural shapes to support the textile
structures. Her is a modern collection, refined, wearable, perfectly calibrated
and innovative at the same time.  

Portfolio by Maria Aurelia Lattaruli, from Afol Moda
GIULIO MORINI 

 
Giulio Morini, a graduate of the LABA LIBERA ACCADEMIA DI BELLE ARTI in Brescia, presented to “Eyes On Me” a sum
of all the projects realized during the scholastic period and for his final
collection. Gifted with an innate talent for textile experimentation and
artistic research, he is inspired by a strong sense of drama and his creations
are unique and with a strong visual impact, conceived as real wearable material
sculptures. 

Giulio Morini, from LABA Libera Accademia di Belle Arti in Brescia, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

Among the outfits presented, there was the suit composed by a
pleated top and a skirt of the “Memento” collection, inspired by the
cult of death in both the Egyptian and in our Western culture, and therefore
made through the use of layers of black tulle and of linen strips, specially
aged and stained for mimic the bandages of the mummies. 

Outfit from the collection “Memento” by Giulio Morini, from LABA Libera Accademia di Belle Arti in Brescia

From his “Waste”
collection, he has brought two pieces, made with industrial textile processing
scraps, composed by a cocktail dress in faux fur and tweed which contrasts, for
the material effect and visual heaviness, to the cape, which through layers of
tulle and hand painted fabrics, wants to reproduce the softness of a fur and
the lightness of a stormy cloud. 

Outfit from the collection “Waste” by Giulio Morini, from LABA Libera Accademia di Belle Arti in Brescia

The third outfit, which recently appeared in
Fashion Graduate Italia, is part of his “Memoriam” collection, for
which the designer has used vintage garments and military jackets which he then
unstructured and rebuilt, intervening with resin effects to block their
structure in a sculptural manner and imprison small objects between the folds
of the fabrics. 

Outfit from the collection “Memoriam” by Giulio Morini, from LABA Libera Accademia di Belle Arti in Brescia
WENQIAN TAN


The Chinese-born designer Wenqian Tan graduated
from the ISTITUTO MARANGONI MILANO and presented at “Eyes On Me” an extremely
cutting-edge collection entitled “Conjoined”, which draws inspiration
from the special condition of life of the joint twins, those who cannot be separate
if not artificially and who share essential parts of the same body. 

Wenqian Tan, from Istituto Marangoni Milano, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

Considering
the clothing not as an artificial structure, but as something alive that
deserves its own possibility of evolution, the designer started thinking of
creating structures similar to the strange metamorphoses that nature sometimes
creates, thus giving rise to unique and extraordinary forms of textile life. 

Wenqian Tan, from Istituto Marangoni Milano, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

Her
garments have multiple points of view, because they can be seen from different
points, and it’s composed by jackets with multiple sleeves sprouting on the
front or back of the garment. The proportions of the silhouettes are elongated,
exasperated or shortened in an extreme way and are designed to accommodate
hybrid bodies, while their surface is faceted in a patchwork of details that
enliven the texture.


Portfolio by Wenqian Tan, from Istituto Marangoni Milano




LORIS GIORDA – MARTINA FONIO

IAAD ISTITUTO D’ARTE APPLICATA E DESIGN was present at “Eyes On Me” with two young designers. 

Loris Giorda and Martina Fonio, from IAAD Istituto D’Arte Applicata e Design, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

Loris
Giorda
presented his thesis collection inspired by the work of Rick Owens, with
whom he also collaborated. His pieces, truly cutting edge, analyze Owens’ work
in relation to the Japanese theater Butoh, which since the 1950s revolutionized
the world of contemporary dance through the physical and visual provocation of
the actors, with their white faces, their frenetic movements halfway between
spirituality and absurd, their expressive expression and references to
autoeroticism. 

Loris Giorda, from IAAD Istituto D’Arte Applicata e Design, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

Loris produces men’s garments that don’t have traditional shapes,
but that play, a little as Owens does, with excessive, disordered and
disproportionate volumes, with asymmetries and cuts in unusual places, with
technological and decidedly unusual materials such as the glass fiber, coated
canvas or padded taffeta, in a palette of colors that plays only with grays and
blacks, while the images of the Butoh theater become like printed postcards
applied to the garments. 

Portfolio by Loris Giorda, from IAAD Istituto D’Arte Applicata e Design,

 
Martina Fonio presents her collection of
accessories, with bags with minimal lines and origami shapes that fit together
with each other, until the desired shape is achieved through folds and joints.
Starting from a single piece, through the use of special materials and
workmanship on the surface, the geometry of the collection comes to life through
the use of warm and autumn colors.

See Also

Martina Fonio, from IAAD Istituto D’Arte Applicata e Design, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA



IRENE GONNELLI
 
Irene Gonnelli, graduated 3 years ago from
ISTITUTO MODARTECH, presented her collection entitled “Phoenix”. Transformation
is the main theme of inspiration of her thesis project, that she carried on analyzing
the whole life cycle of the Phoenix, from its primitive existence to death in
the flames, to the transformation into ashes and finally the rebirth. 

Irene Gonnelli, from Istituto Modartech, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

The theme
is interpreted in the form of regeneration and recycling, with a focus on
sustainability through the use of waste materials especially for accessories,
such as the Fenice theatrical mask and the small plexiglass bags that accompany
the outfits.

 

Graduate collection by Irene Gonnelli, from Istituto Modartech

The designer, who is also an excellent illustrator, creates models
ranging from the ash gray of the cotton dresses and the micro shorts in
leather, to flashes of color in the shade of the fire, represented by hand-made
free brushstrokes on organza fabrics , while the fire lapilli are represented
through embroidery and applications of feathers and threads that give movement
to her creations.

  

Portfolio by Irene Gonnelli, from Istituto Modartech
HYEYUN SEOL

 

The Korean designer Hyeyun Seol, who
participated in the collective fashion show of DOMUS ACADEMY at Fashion Graduate Italia, exhibited the garments of her men’s
collection inspired by the novel “Metamorphosis” by Franz Kafka. 

Hyeyun Seol, from Domus Academy, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

Starting from the character Gregor Samsa, the designer invents her own
character, who lives in a gray city, surrounded by workers like him, with whom he
shares a banal life made up of daily routines, boredom and resignation. Until
it happens in him a transformation, that on ne side pulls him out of the
banality and on the other catapults him into a deep inner crisis. 

Hyeyun Seol, from Domus Academy, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

The designer
makes the idea of ​​this transformation through asymmetrical utility-style
garments, often with two different souls that mix unstructured jackets and
satin suits, oversize work-suits and skimpy tailored vests, shirts with double
collars and cutted sleeves, many pockets everywhere. All thought in a gray,
that ranges from the pearl to the colors of the leaden sky and of the London smoke, up to
touch the black.


Capsule collection by Hyeyun Seol, from Domus Academy, at Fashion Graduate Italia

 


CHIARA PARISI

 

Chiara Parisi comes from the NEXT FASHION SCHOOL BY CARLA SECOLI in Bologna. At Milano Unica she presents her
“Inside Out Destruct” collection, created for a contest organized in
collaboration with FRI Fashion Research Italy, an important foundation for didactic research and
exhibitions of the archives of the Italian companies in the manufacturing sector. 

Chiara Parisi, from Next Fashion School by Carla Secoli, at “Eyes On Me” by MILANO UNICA

Inspired by its textile archives, the designer has developed a collection in
which the 70s style all-over floral patterns play in strong chromatic contrast
with destructured elements used in overlapping, assembled parts made of heavier
fabrics and solid colors, that seem taken from other items of clothing and
reused under different forms. The outfits so assembled, have two different
souls each and mix shapes adhering to the body with others intentionally
oversized, made through folds and drapes, with belts and straps that sometimes
close the proportions and unite all the elements of the composition.

 

Portfolio by Chiara Parisi, from Next Fashion School by Carla Secoli
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