ACCADEMIA DI BELLE ARTI DI BRERA at Fashion Graduate Italia 2019


The 8 young designers of Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera surprised the public of Fashion Graduate Italia 2019 with their ready-to-wear final collections that play with the contrasts, revealing the female sensuality,  but also interpreting the different cultural heritages through a quite aesthetic or, at the opposite, making a meditation about the madness.

Once more ACCADEMIA DI BELLE ARTI DI BRERA was one of the protagonist of the fashion week dedicated to young students and fashion schools at Fashion Graduate Italia 2019. Differently from many other young students of other academies, more fascinated by exhuberant experimentations, those of Brera remarked their talent in terms of concreteness.

From this school, located in the artistic heart of Milan, come some of the most interesting new names of fashion design, like Bartolotta & Martorana, and I wouldn’t be surprised if one day we will hear about some other young designer from Brera. This is my wish, because I’ve seen in the final collections realized by these students something really interesting.

Jewels designed by the students of Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera and showcased at Fashion Graduate Italia 2019

The graduate collections were not exaggerated in terms of shapes or style and also when we’ve seen some extravagance, everything was always perfectly calibrated for being not too much. And when a young designer is able of being concrete yet at his first collection, it’s always a good news.

What I’ve seen on catwalk are 8 ready-to-wear collections, realized with ability for enhancing the body or to cover it in favor of a different meditation on the role of clothing. Something was strong and bold, something else was creative and almost childlike or incredibly quite. A game of opposites that moved the graduate fashion show with contrasting feelings. A diversity of points of view that leave free the imagination of the students.
Final collection by Jessica Nicodemo, student of Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera showcased at Fashion Graduate Italia 2019

Sensuality. A refined and yet delicate sensuality permeates the collection by JESSICA NICODEMO. Through the asymmetrical transparencies of the fabrics or from the opening of a deep slit, appears the female beauty with a mood that in some details recalls the aesthetic vision of Miuccia Prada in the 90s. Maybe for the neon drawstrings that create small drapes wrapping the body, maybe for the choice of lilac as unique color into a dark and almost metallic palette. Maybe.

Final collection by Wang Yawen, student of Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera showcased at Fashion Graduate Italia 2019

The sense of calm that only the passage of a tempest can give. As after a storm of wind the pieces created by WANG YAWEN are mixed together in an apparently confused way. Moved by an invisible wind that can destroy but can also create other beautiful shapes, the different parts of garments seem assembled together in a mix and match of shifted elements that disturb the common sense. But the colors, pacific like an ocean, bring back everything to calm.

Final collection by Cristina Cucinotta and Teresa Cicero, students of Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera showcased at Fashion Graduate Italia 2019
A doll made with wool yarns, a skinned knee, a band-aid to medicate the small sufference of a young girl, the tender drawings made when we were children. CRISTINA CUCINOTTA and TERESA CICERO turn back the clock of life, returning to their childhood with a final collection made of sweet and bitter memories. There are the sketches of a doll becoming an embroidery, the hand-knitted pillow transformed into bags and the beautiful, surprisingly giant plasters turned into stunning jewels.

Final collection by Fabrizio Bennici, student of Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera showcased at Fashion Graduate Italia 2019

FABRIZIO BENNICI brings on catwalk spectral presences inspired by the Japanese tradition, but moving forward and transforming the aesthetic instances of this culture through a modern Western style. About the original theme we can clearly see the ghost’s mask, a certain chromatic palette that limit the choice to simple tones. But the topic is faced with fluidity and darkness at the same time, through long added sleeves that create big knots, a bold nudity, a scaring tinkling of metallic rings.

Final collection by Yang Xingzi, student of Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera showcased at Fashion Graduate Italia 2019

The Japan recalled in the graduate collection by YANG XINGZI is those of the Geisha, the Emperor’s mistress, the beautiful courtesan expert in the art of love. Iconic figure who becomes print on a silk kimono, embroidery on a shirt dress, a silhouette on a vinyl jacket, a repetitive motif on eco-leather. Besides of the presence of her face, the sensuality is in the air and in the movement of a color-changing organza.

Final collection by Alessandra Morinelli, student of Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera showcased at Fashion Graduate Italia 2019

ALESSANDRA MORINELLI plays with the intersections of cultures and signs. The reference is that of Far East, mediated by elements of our Western aesthetic, declined by the colors of a desert. The shapes are built for being imprisoned by crossing bands that stop the fabrics movements focusing the attention of the viewer on the bust, where there is the heart, something that deserves attention and meditation.

Final collection by Antonio Corposanto, student of Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera showcased at Fashion Graduate Italia 2019

Transformation in every sense. ANTONIO CORPOSANTO makes a transformation of his style, or better an evolution in terms of self-confidence. From the intense work of fabric manipulation and the ethnic atmosphere of his first collection, to this explosion of colors and audacity. Changes not only purely visual, but philosophical. The collection is developed around the concept of jacket, that is turned into dresses and tops, that plays with asymmetries, exhuberant pleats and frills, shocking nudities and equally stunning color combinations. Couragiously fascinating.

Final collection by Liu Yikang, student of Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera showcased at Fashion Graduate Italia 2019

When the creativity of an artist investigate the insanity something strange can happens. LIU YIKANG operates a visual and conceptual short circuit in which everything that usually is cosidered normal can become a different thing, another perspective. As in a madhouse the walls are covered by padded fabrics, here these protective elements take on the meaning of research for beauty, wherever the straitjackets constricted the bodies, now they become wearable and stylish pieces. The madness is confined in the embroideries and in the damaged textures, so sauvage and disconcerting.
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