Once again Milano Unica demonstrates a great attention for the new generation of fashion creatives, giving a large space for the exhibition of the most talented students coming from some of the best Italian fashion schools.
Are 24 the young fashion designers selected by the fashion academies part of Piattaforma Sistema Formativo Moda who had the occasion to showcase their graduate collections in an important event like Milano Unica.
For three days the exhibition “Eyes on Me” focused the attention of buyers, talents scout and mass media on these new talents and their graduate collections.
From IAAD ISTITUTO D’ARTE APPLICATA E DESIGN come three young designers, all inspired by some indigenous population. Simone Briotti presented his outfits inspired by the “Chimbu” originated from Pope New Guinea and the artist Chiharu Shiota and their relationship with the human anatomy. The extremely graphic collection by Alberto Gallo is inspired by the South American “Kayapò“, who color their skin with natural pigments to create symbolic bodypaintings. Simone Ruggiero reinvented the traditional clothes of “Asaro Mudmen” tribe, who use the appearance of a ghost and masks to scare their enemies.
Eva Bureau is the winner of the “ACM Talents 2020” of ACCADEMIA COSTUME & MODA with the collection “Hexapoda”, inspired by the world of insects. The young and talented designer explored their structures and colors, creating a contemporary armor that mixes different digital patterns in a beautiful kaleidoscope.
From ACCADEMIA DI BELLE ARTI DI BRERA come many new talents. Fabrizio Bennici in his collection speaks about a traditional Japanes story of ghosts and spirits, with a dark mood made even more creepy with the use of tinkling metals rings and scary masks. Yikang Liu takes inspiration from the madhouses and the mental insanity, translated into fashion products through the use damaged surfaces, whirling embroideries and quilted textures.
Those depicted by Antonio Corposanto is a powerful vision of woman, who plays around the concept of the male jacket transforming it with an eclectic and ultra-sensual feminine touch, without renouncing to a pinch of aggressiveness in the colors and the nudity. Jessica Nicodemo makes a time journey in the past of the period just after the Second World War, in which the women tried with difficulty to return to normality. The concepts is expressed by the return to a defined shape through the use of drawstring that can enlarge or less the measures of the outfits.
Fausto Vicidomini from ACCADEMIA DELLA MODA works on the shapes of streetwear adding to the oversize jumpsuits and coats a touch of color that becomes three-dimensional thanks to the use of the Tufting technique, an ancient Chinese traditional method to produce carpets, and the isnpiration that comes from the artwork of the Polish artist 1010.
Giorgia Manente and Giacomo Tomassoni come from NEXT FASHION SCHOOL. Giorgia presents “Ready to jump” a collection inspired by streetwear and sportswear revisited changing the normal points of view and using differently the various type of garments. Giacomo instead is fascinated by the workwear, declined throught the use of a single fabric intersected by colored lycra and dozens of pockets in many different shapes, used as leitmotif of his graduate collection.
From ISTITUTO SECOLI come two young Korean designers, who I’ve already interviewed in a previous article. Gyurin Na in her “Sembra Vero” collection explores the visual elements of the digital world, transforming the real fabrics into glitched prints and playing with the concept of true and fake reality. Seosung Kim is fascinated by the inner world of Francis Bacon, dramatic and theatrical on one side, classic and traditional on the other side. So the designer add a very personal touch to the shapes of menswear, creating stunning trench coats and very modern blazer jackets.
ISTITUTO BURGO presents the work of three designers. Ilaria Boniforti and Giovanni Caruso work in couple for a very feminine collection that mixes classic fabrics like the Chanel tweed with laser-cutted neoprene and technical fabrics, hybridazing the rigid structures with romantic Victorian-style ruffles. The girls proposed by Marina Lisyuk are strong “Walkirias” wearing eco-leather corsets and colored furs, asymmetries and galaxy-effect prints.
Two very creative designers come from NABA Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti. Jessica Selvi recreates an ancient bucolic world populated by girls almost imprisoned in the past. The prints have as starting point the flowers, but become chaotic and surreal, as well as the corsets assembled together to give life to other interesting shapes. Manuel Capozzi instead presets us a real family, or better his very personal vision of a family in the modern times, making a strange but decidedly remarkable reasoning on birth, life and tradition during the age of virtual reality.
All the shades of black adn some accent of grey for Palak Singh, young designer coming from DOMUS ACADEMY, who presents a very interesting graduate collection in which the traditional sartorial shapes are reassembled and transformed by pleats and stitches.
AFOL MODA demonstrates once again the value of its students. The childrenwear collection designed by Simona Chen and Stefani Garrini is one of those unforgettable, because delicious, funny and based on a beautiful story. “2 minuti e siamo a casa” tells about the point of view of a girl returning at home and the two designers were able to catapult us in a world of fancy in which everything is different from the reality. The delicate and refined graduate collection designed by Sofia Maio is inspired by the 500th anniversary of the Leonardo Da Vinci’s death and in particular by his studies of anatomy and geometry, that the designer transformed into voluptuos three-dimensional shapes and curvy surfaces.
Veronica Hosena from FERRARI FASHION SCHOOL focuses her attention on the concept of wearability, takingan initial inspiration from Avant-garde and Costructivism in the colors and in the seriousness of the shapes, but exploring then the real use we do of garments and playing with the convertibility of clothing to really wear the female body with something beautiful and useful at the same time.
The graduate collection designed by Cinzia Cerri, young student of ISTITUTO MODARTECH, is decidedly atypical. Everything is asymmetrical and can be observed from various points of view and the sensation of disorientation from reality is emphasized by the use of bold colors and a new way to intend preciousness.
The collection presented by Zhenni Kuang, student from ISTITUTO MARANGONI, is one of the most Avant-garde and contemporary seen during Milano Unica, with black and white only, graphic prints with shaded effects, technical fabrics and strange shapes that seem multipurpose.
From HARIM ACCADEMIA EUROMEDITERRANEA in Catania come the young designers Michela Montandon and Naomi Luise Restuccia, who presented two very different graduate collections. Michela analyzes the concept of the tribal mask as evocative subject that can express various sides of man’s personality, but that can be also a cover to protect the identity from the outside while the man makes a travel to discover the inner solf. At the opposite Naomi takes inspiration from two feminist movement, those of the Japanese women who created the first literature magazine and the 18th century movement od the blue stocking. Always on the line between discrimination and the necessity to empower themselves, her women wear sophisticated pleats and elegant shapes.