Once again this year Accademia Costume & Moda (ACM) took part in the Fashion Graduate Italia 2021, presenting the personal projects of the students of the Master in “Haute Couture, Fashion Design”.
On the Catwalk of the graduate collection presented by Accademia Costume & Moda we have seen the creations of Caterina Antonia Ciavattella, Ehetnesh Delle Curti, Paula Fernández Álvarez, Isabella Giovannini, Angelo Raffaele Masciello and Silvia Manzara.
The students were followed throughout the training course by Santo Costanzo, Director of the Master and Fashion Area Coordinator of ACM, and Michela Leto di Priolo, Scientific Director of the Master.
The common thread of this year’s projects is the theme of rebirth and nature, reinterpreted by the young designers in a contemporary way, proposing a new idea of haute couture that is certainly more sustainable and beneficial for the planet.
CATERINA ANTONIA CIVATELLA – I GIARDINI DI FRAME
The theme of nature is proposed almost literally. Embroidered, fabric and denim flowers adorn the gorgeous collection created by Caterina Antonia Civatella.
Large volumes halfway between the mid 19th century and the Renaissance and fluid fabrics characterize the garments, maintaining the distinctive features of the high fashion collections.
The contemporary is declined in a concrete way, while maintaining an almost magical aura that makes the public experience a dreamlike and fairytale journey.
PAULA FERNÁNDEZ ÁLVAREZ – INCORRECTA
The collection created by Paula Fernández Alvarez in based on the idea of freedom and the fight against censorship.
Her intention was to make an ode to everything that should not be said or done, a counteraction to the hypocrisy of “protection”.
The main inspiration behind the garments is rebellion, specifically the Punk movement, she wanted to express the beauty of the irreverent, the idea of the anger of the youth, which is full of rage and a half absurd irony.
Exposed underwear, corsetry, fishnet stockings and outerwear are mixed in a way that conveys the idea of a different type of high fashion, more irreverent and with a rock soul.
The emerging designer redefined the aggressive punk mode, with embroidery, draping, and shapes that look fluffy but are actually pointed, an ironic duality as censure for freedom.
SILVIA MANZARA – SYLVIE FOLIES
“Sylvie Folies” , the collection by Silvia Manzara, is inspired by “Les Folies-Bergère”, a form of escape show born at the end of the nineteenth century as a variety theatre. The purpose of this show was to distract the observer from his daily reality.
The colours used are warm and iridescent, the patterns are colourful, bold and ironic. Oversized volumes and shapes are combined with the simplicity of the trapezoid line enriched by a skilful craftsmanship.
The fabrics used are alternate between silk iridescent organza with the preciousness of the brocade jacquard, a silk warp woven with metallic thread with the addition of lurex within the reproduction of the prints.
The collection wants to convey an idea of lightness, an invitation to face reality with irreverence.
ANGELO RAFFAELE MASCIELLO – LA QUINTA ESSENZA
Angelo Raffaele Masciello’s collection has clear and strong references to the Asian world, in particular to the Japanese one.
The collection breaks the kimono that completely envelops the female figure, briefly showing parts of the body without breaking the bond with its own soul: delicacy.
The young designer plays with fabric manipulation, overlapping, floral decorations and tone on tone shades of colours.
It’a new take on the iconic garments with a newfound, definitely more western, sensuality.
EHETNESH DELLE CURTI – (MI)RICUCI
The collection by Ehetnesh Delle Curti is a contemporary and personal interpretation of the concept of beauty and fluidity, which plays with everyone’s physical and psychological limits.
The concept is closely linked with Gender Fluid, to find through fashion the idea of a better and tolerant world.
Her garments are a way to enhance the contemporary identity of all those individuals ready to undermine the preconceptions related to their gender, by means of various techniques including the use of printing which becomes the main element of the entire collection, whose main goal is to attempt a new distortion in which beauty should appear and trying to destroy that image that everyone expects it to embody.
This collection is a manifesto of extreme freedom in the search for one’s own identity, beyond the gender to which it belongs, it is a desire that couture too can consider the gender fluid perspective as a valid alternative.
ISABELLA GIOVANNINI – LES JARDINS DES SANS PAR
“Sans par” is the idea created by Isabella Giovannini for her collection. The concept literally means “without equal, unique” like flowers are in nature, like each one of us and like certain ancient fabrics like silk velvet, brocades and damasks that have had a previous life.
Sustainability plays a very important role thanks to the use of natural materials, that are mixed with antique or vintage recycled fabrics to create garments that are absolutely exclusive and in a certain sense unrepeatable, sometimes adorned with embroideries and handmade flowers.
The clothes are unified and linked by the theme of the Italian labyrinth gardens between the XV and XII Century, as well as references to William Morris and the Pre-Raphaelites.
Article by Federica Macheda
