During the Fashion Graduate Italia 2021, the student of Brera Academy presented their graduate capsule collection.
The young designers of the Fashion Design Course, followed by the teacher and international designer Francesca Liberatore, at the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera, showed their individuality, their creative and practical skills throughout the concepts behind the collection, expressing their own ideas and values.
The collections presented all those topical issues the new generation is confronted with every day: leaving the judgement of a society that too often demands an idealized perfection, which is here cancelled for a more intimate research of what identity is and why it is so important, without stopping at the mere appearance of things. Moreover, the oblivion is considered as an absolute absence of information in contrast with the memory and the game. Finally, the desire to travel again and create those connections that create a new taste, the gender fluid taste.
“Eyes on me” is the name of the menswear collection created by the emerging fashion designer Domenico Dicorato and it was born from an in-depth study of his own personality. An Apulian boy who arrives in Milan because he no longer wants to be judged by society. Because society looks at you, judges you and hurts you through looks, leaving you with gashes on the armor you created.
The collection by Leonardo D’Anzi was born from the desire to return to travel after this period of forced mobility, in order to re-discover the world, to gain knowledge, be amazed and contaminated. A journey that goes from the desert to the city and its goal is to give birth to a new language. Blue and yellow are the main colours and they give dynamism and cheerfulness to the garments, a newfound take on a joyful life.
Cristian Di Serio
Cristian Di Serio‘s collection takes inspiration from the coal miners’ work uniform. The characterizing detail of the entire collection is the knot of their foulard, that has been inserted inside the capsule transforming the clothes from work uniform to garments with an urban style.
“Identity Loss” the project by Giulia Greci was born from a reflection on the consumeristic outcomes that machines generated and how the process of making fashion has been influenced by mechanisation.
The industry moved more and more the focus of fashion, from constructing and narrating the identity of the designer to trying to make the best profit out of it. This capsule collection aims to research an utopian new world of fashion where the economy isn’t the main focus. The final goal is to encourage us to reflect on what identity is and why is it so important.
Bright lilac and sage or acid green give a contemporary and modern twist to the garments.
The fashion collection by Antonio Corposanto is based on the conscept of anomaly considering the themes of alteration, deformity, distortion of human body. Minidress, structured jackets and overalls with a bulky effect, handling of velvet fabric invade the vital fields of sleeves and prints with strong kaleidoscope graphics that interact with soft color velvets. The spasmodic research for an idealized perfection is canceled. The disharmonies, the small imperfections give the way of access to everyone’s intimacy.
The theme David Lucenti has chosen for his collection this year is the social constructs in clothing, seen through the stories two figures: Henry Cyril Paget, V Marquis of Anglesey and the Australian artist Leigh Bovery. They perfectly embody his belief that clothes are genderless and that we should not dwell on the mere appearance of things.
The almost monochromatic graduate collection by Fabrizio Bennici is based on the concept of “synapse”, a link between the cells of the nervous system. The young fashion designer used it to figuratively represent a connection between two genders, introducing a new taste of gender fluidity, recalling the mood and shapes of the 20s, but reinterpreted in a contemporary way.
“99” is the women’s capsule collection by Jessica Nicodemo and it is inspired by memory and play. The garments were born from a series of photographs taken in Brazil. The recurring elements in the collection are the glitch, the digital error and the klecksographies, that alternate with asymmetries, shiny surfaces and padded elements.
The name of Linda Grasso‘s collection is “Remember Me” and the main concept is the oblivion, which is the absolute forgetfulness of information. The idea is concretized into her project with the removal of some part of the garment. Technical fabrics are combined with wool and other materials, the contrast is enhanced by the mix of cold colours with warmer tones.
Article by Federica Macheda