Altaroma presents itself this year in a new guise, a mix between physical and digital event, bringing the best emerging talents to the catwalk
Altaroma reconfirms itself as one of the moments of greatest aggregation of the fashion scene and despite the difficulties of the last two years, the organizers want to give a positive signal once again, to reconfirm themselves present and confident and offer an opportunity to all the young designers and emerging brands that start their path in the world of fashion.
Here are the best of the collections presented on the Altaroma runway on the second day of the event.
This fashion collection by Simon Cracker has been untitled until the last minute: “Sulle corna della Luna”, a greeting from a Sicilian pastry chef met by chance. He made a wish for the emerging brand: a higher place, between the stars, even higher than the moon itself. A reflection on femininity that starts from the wedding dress, one of the most important garments in many women’s life: full of meaning, keeper of a story with a good or bad ending, but with an undeniable value.
The destruction and reconstruction of these clothes so full of meanings created a strong emotional wave, that led to a wider thought on the “feminine”, a concept that today is abused, misused as a cold marketing strategy or just a seasonal trend, negating the true essence of such a deep feeling. Following the narrative of the brand the garments are destroyed and rebuilt in a crude but paradoxically delicate way: tulle, crinolines, lace and embroideries come back to life melting with tecnica garments and traditional men’s tailoring threaded by endless handmade red polka dots on an immaculate background.
“Naive” is the FW22 collection by Casapreti and it is centred around a simple act of amazement and innocence. The name itself indicates the unconditioned lack of guilt, the inability to perform any kind of evil act, which is connected to the naivety of the child that is confronted with the complexity of our times.
A neutral color palette, with white, black grey and some hints of red. The charm of purity and accuracy, the love for ceremonial clothes, brought to the inclusion of clerical lines in this collection.
These colours represent the essence of innocence. That is why the fashion brand research involved children between two and five years old, in order to create together with them a fabric with their drawings. This gave them an opportunity to express themselves and to choose any kind of colour or subject, by starting with the same material.
It’s always very obvious the way in which humans judge and comment stories and facts even though they do not know them directly, by applying moral judgements to forms and contents that they did not experience personally. This is why they wanted to use a new fresh and innocent view to observe our times, in order to have a chance to get to know new stories, so that every new tale can still have the chance to be innocent and naive.
“A | MENO” is the concept behind the fashion collection presented by Gaiofatto on the Altaroma runway.
The young emerging designer Michela Gaiofatto expresses her idea of femininity through her garments by playing with soft and flowing fabrics, asymmetry, enveloping lines and ruffles that make the collection dynamic.
The color palette is made up of different tones: red in multiple shades, white and black alternating with pastel green and pink.
Luxury is not given by the shape of the garment itself, but by the richness and attention to detail, such as carvings, inserts, slits, cuffs and collars.
Gaiofatto was born from a vision of luxury understood as well-being, as a full lifestyle, made up of sensations, of feeling good about yourself, with others and with the surrounding environment.
The emerging fashion brand is style and research, craftsmanship and innovation, a passion for details, for a path that leads to excellence, to a luxury made of substance and not just of appearance.
The result is an essential and modern aesthetic, characterized by a contemporary and linear style, closely linked to the concept of tailoring, starting from the fabrics, always precious and refined, up to the finishes, seams and small details, which together guarantee durability and uniqueness.
ROME IS MY RUNWAY #2
Cru Le defines itself as a form of environmental activism. Each creation matches that full-blooded, sincere and strong side of Maremma’s rural life. Beautiful, useful and necessary: these are the three key points of each CRU LE creation, strictly inserted in collections. The love for minimalism, for the essential and for the functional gives life to a capsule small number of garments, designed to be easily combined with each other throughout the year. A timeless collection that knows no expiry date, not only for its style, but also for being available on an ongoing basis. Everything aims to maximize the wardrobe and its management time.
In this fashion collection seen at Altaroma, the hard but sensual lines of CRU LE mark an unconventional woman, at the helm of her own ship, busy tracing her own route. It emerges a femininity never taken for granted, which sees in fashion timeless art to wear every day. The design combines aesthetic and conceptual research: Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea, Baricco’s Ocean Sea and the figure of Peggy Guggenheim are the inspiration sources of the collection.
The sea in winter, therefore, with its reflective soul together with the nonconformism of a collector of contemporary art of early ‘900, are the double soul of the garments on the runway of Altaroma 2022.
For the Fall / Winter 2022-2023 season, Eticlò investigates the relationship between the individual, society and the planet, telling the classics pieces of the Italian wardrobe inspired by a modern and independent femininity “Coexistence in the same ecosystem is given by a balance based on reciprocal relationships.” With this metaphor, the fashion brand describes the importance of respecting balance and diversity in our society, through a philosophy of attention and awareness. The emerging brand has always talked about its ethical closet through a responsible approach, attentive to the raw material and respectful of the social production line economic.
The stylistic imprint of the collection is characterized by an international echo: large and comfortable volumes, outline the versatility of the brand, the elegant and refined tones enhance the Italian quality and elegance. The density material of the fibres reflects the maturity and knowledge of the product through a selection of sustainable and high quality fabrics. The contrast between the intense and warm colours give elegance and sophistication to wool-cashmere knitwear; the masculine tones of shirts and trousers describe the minimalist and essential soul of the brand. A game of overlaps inspired by the biodiversity of nature and our society.
The “Movement Ecocentrique” by Francesca Marchisio invites us to change our perspective from Ego to Eco. A manifesto-collection putting into practice
the values of circular fashion: reversible models last beyond the seasons with fluidity of gender and size, naturally sustainable fabrics selection, recovery of stocks to create new value and new clothes.
Each garment has been designed by imagining why people would choose and wear it. Women and men are complementary parts of the same essence. Therefore the men’s shirt in shiny silk becomes desirable for everyone, both men and women.
Sparkling skirts find balance with the comfortable opacity of fishing vests or oversized coats. The pure wool fur transforms every coat into a reversible one, unifying sobriety and mix of materials.
“Night is the other half of life, and the better half”
NightClub the fashion collection by Homie is a mirage, it is the dream of a perfect night, of lights, of music until dawn, of a place where there are no rules, no secrets.
Escape and freedom, good girls from a bad family with bad boys from a good family. Dresses, silk and cashmere suits, jackets and leather looks characterize the garments on the runway. Delicate, minimal lines follow the body and enhance its shape.
Article by Federica Macheda